[SOLVED] I'm looking for ALLVIEW Wi1001N repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my ALLVIEW Wi1001N. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Alonso

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the ALLVIEW Wi1001N and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Caterpillar+B15+LCD+Replacement/32576
Take a look at comment #728
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/p3450-ptg-optimus-unlock-ipossible.413772/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 10:

The ALLVIEW Wi1001N service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a ALLVIEW Wi1001N with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My ALLVIEW Wi1001N was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your ALLVIEW Wi1001N starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/q-nexus-6-android-5-0-1-reminders-dont-work.2989797/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Heat gun or hot plate (for devices with strong adhesive, especially screens) Hot Air Rework Station: Essential for controlled removal and installation of SMD chips. If the board is already at a temperature close to the solder's melting point (e.g., 150-180°C for lead-free solder), the top-side hot air station needs to supply significantly less heat and for a shorter duration to reach the full reflow temperature (e.g., 217-230°C for lead-free). VBUS Voltage: Check voltage at the charging port's VBUS pin (should be around 5V when charger is connected). Corrosion/Liquid Damage: Inspect the NFC coil and its connector for any signs of liquid ingress (discoloration, white powdery residue, green rust). Give the entire cleaned area a final wipe with a dry, lint-free microfiber cloth to remove any remaining dust or solvent streaks. Place one probe on each end of a surface-mount fuse (often small black rectangles near power inputs). Successfully repairing a physically damaged PCB can save an otherwise bricked device, especially if it holds irreplaceable data. Locate the VBUS line on the schematic, which carries voltage from the USB port. Heat Gun or Hot Air Rework Station: Essential for heating adhesive on screen assemblies or for desoldering if the port is soldered. The vibrator motor is often located near the charging port or at the top of the phone, sometimes integrated into a larger flex cable assembly or housed within a small cavity in the frame. Continuity Checks: Verify continuity of coaxial antenna cables and their connections to the motherboard. By following these detailed steps, prioritizing safety, and using the correct tools, you can successfully perform this upgrade. Given that water resistance is not permanent and can be easily compromised, a proactive assessment is key to avoiding unforeseen and often irreversible liquid damage.6. If external checks don't resolve the issue, you'll need to reopen the phone. More bands or faster moving bands might indicate a higher frequency and potentially less bothersome flicker, while fewer, slower, more distinct bands could point to a lower, more problematic frequency. Heat guns or hot plates may be needed to soften adhesive holding the screen or back cover. If a battery is severely swollen, consider professional repair to minimize risk. Ensure each bracket is correctly oriented and secured with its specific screws, using your reference photos as a guide. Avoid harsh industrial solvents or household cleaners, which can damage delicate solder masks, plastics, or component markings. Physical impact: Drops or impacts can pinch, tear, or dislodge the cable. Failed Flashing Attempt: An interrupted or incorrect firmware flash can corrupt critical boot partitions, forcing the device into EDL. Even hairline cracks that are barely perceptible can disrupt the digitizer's grid, leading to unresponsive areas. Transceiver IC (RF Transceiver): This IC converts digital baseband signals to analog radio frequencies and vice versa. Clean off all old adhesive residue from the phone's frame using IPA and a plastic scraper. This is used to program the new chip with the necessary bootloader, firmware, and partition structure for your specific phone model. If the recording is also muffled or silent, your microphone is likely faulty. Diagnosing smartphone motherboard failures is a meticulous process that demands a systematic approach, a deep understanding of mobile electronics, and the right set of tools. Apply a tiny, tiny drop of super glue or slow-drying epoxy to the tip of the correct size screwdriver bit. Software Update: Ensure your phone's operating system is updated to the latest stable version.

@Hubert, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)