[SOLVED] I'm looking for ANEE Pride repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my ANEE Pride. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Lidia

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the ANEE Pride and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/oh-my-good-what-a-black-screen.2753849/
Take a look at comment #688
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/well-i-think-my-cappys-memory-is-toast.1879963/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 2:

The ANEE Pride service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a ANEE Pride with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My ANEE Pride was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your ANEE Pride starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/in-protest.437317/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Camera App Malfunctions: The camera app might display a warning about overheating, refuse to open, or prevent video recording until the device cools down. Disconnect the Front-Facing Camera Flex Cable: Using a plastic spudger or tweezers, carefully pry up the flex cable connector that attaches the camera module to the logic board. Always handle your device and accessories with care, ensuring proper alignment when docking or connecting. Some flex cables have small components (e.g., ICs, resistors, capacitors) directly soldered onto them. Disconnect Other Relevant Flex Cables: Disconnect the display, charging port, camera, and any other flex cables that obstruct access to the volume rocker assembly or the logic board. Copper Foils/Heat Spreaders: Thin sheets or small blocks of copper are often bonded to or placed near critical components. The CPU expects a specific baseband, and replacing it without cryptographic authentication will result in a non-functional cellular module. Clean the entire area with IPA and an ESD-safe brush/cotton swab to remove all flux residue. If neither the quick settings flashlight nor the camera flash works, and all software troubleshooting steps have been exhausted, it's a strong indicator of a hardware failure (LED, driver IC, or connection). Therefore, they often require calibration (e.g., drawing a figure-eight pattern with the phone) to compensate for these interferences and ensure accuracy. Pinching: Check if the cable is pinched by screws, other components, or the phone's frame when the device is assembled. When your Wi-Fi signal drops frequently, Bluetooth devices constantly disconnect, or you can’t connect at all, it’s a strong indicator that your phone’s Wi-Fi or Bluetooth antenna might be failing. Crackling/Static Sounds: Audio quality is poor, with audible static or crackling. PMIC Failure: The PMIC's input for the power button signal may be damaged. It is crucial to source a reliable replacement part to ensure proper functionality and compatibility. Insert Prying Tool: Once a gap is created, insert a thin plastic prying tool (e.g., guitar pick or spudger) into the gap. This not only looks unprofessional but also compromises the device's structural integrity. Anti-rollback features prevent downgrading to older, potentially vulnerable firmware versions. Problems within this circuit can manifest as a device that won't turn on, randomly reboots, or becomes completely unresponsive to the power button. Higher Dynamic Range: Better reproduction of both very quiet and very loud sounds. Ensure the frame is completely dry before applying new adhesive or installing any components. Detailed Inspection: Use your magnifying glass or microscope to meticulously examine the antenna contact points and their corresponding pads. By monitoring the current draw from the power supply during different states (off, booting, idle, in use), a technician can identify abnormal current spikes or constant high draw that points to specific component failures. Be extremely cautious not to insert the pick too deeply, as you risk damaging internal flex cables. Try sharing a file, contact, or photo by tapping the backs of the two phones together. Beyond individual component symbols, the labeling system within a schematic is paramount. Advanced Polishing for Glass Lenses (High Risk, Professional Skill Recommended) Replacing a dedicated DSP in a smartphone is undoubtedly one of the pinnacles of micro-soldering skill. Look for any dust, lint, debris, or signs of internal damage (like bent pins in the card reader). Screen Opening Style: Does the screen lift from the side, top, or bottom? Does it "hinge" like a book, or lift completely off?

@Zuzana, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)