[SOLVED] I'm looking for ARIMA 2717 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my ARIMA 2717. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Mick

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the ARIMA 2717 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Fix+A+Cracked+Leather+Jacket/158104
Take a look at comment #1055
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/system-beep-start-call-call-history.371437/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 9:

The ARIMA 2717 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a ARIMA 2717 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My ARIMA 2717 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your ARIMA 2717 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Kobo+Glo+HD+eReader+Battery+Replacement/143903

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Remove any screws securing the shield, then use a plastic spudger to gently pry up and disconnect the battery flex cable from the logic board. Incorrect Fit: The new screen might not fit perfectly into the frame, leaving gaps or creating pressure points. This often means carefully salvaging from a donor board of the exact same model or purchasing from a reputable electronics supplier. Understanding the root causes and applying a systematic troubleshooting approach is key to diagnosing and resolving this pervasive issue. Gentle, Consistent Pressure: Apply gentle, downward pressure while turning the screw. Removal: Apply flux, use the hot air station to heat and remove the old IMU IC (as described in previous topics for IC removal). The most challenging part is usually opening the phone and transferring small components (earpiece, front camera, home button/fingerprint sensor) from the old assembly to the new one. For just the lens cover, if done meticulously with proper adhesive, the impact on overall water resistance is usually minimal, though never guaranteed to be factory-spec again. Identifying smartphone sensor misalignment requires a blend of keen observation, systematic software testing with diagnostic apps, and, if necessary, a careful physical inspection. How they work: These tools display rapidly changing color patterns (often flashing black, white, red, green, blue) on the screen, typically in a small window you can drag over the affected area. Further Short Circuit Diagnosis: While continuity gives a simple "yes/no," resistance can give a numerical value for a short. Use your precision screwdrivers to remove all screws, keeping them organized by type and location using your small container or a magnetic mat. Precision and Perfect Fit: Smartphones are manufactured to extremely tight tolerances. Ambient Light Sensor Calibration: Controls the auto-brightness feature, adjusting screen brightness based on environmental light. Modem/Baseband IC (Integrated Circuit) Failure: This is the most severe hardware fault. Causes: These errors almost exclusively point to a hardware issue with the iPhone's baseband processor or its associated components. Fine-tip Soldering Iron: A temperature-controlled iron with a very fine tip (e.g., chisel or conical 0.5-1.0mm) is essential. However, on some flagship devices, the USB-C port is soldered directly onto the main logic board, requiring advanced micro-soldering expertise for replacement. Debris accumulation: Lint, dust, or dirt packed into the port can bend pins upon cable insertion. Liquid Damage: Check for any signs of liquid ingress (water marks, corrosion) around the display connector area and the back of the display assembly. Even a slightly bent pin can prevent proper contact, leading to intermittent power delivery. Overclocking/Under-voltage: For users who root and modify their devices, pushing the CPU or GPU beyond its stable limits (overclocking) or supplying insufficient power (under-voltage) can cause system instability and data corruption due to errors in processing or writing data. Analyzing smartphone software update failures requires patience and a methodical approach. If the phone has been dropped, subjected to liquid damage, or undergone a poor repair, the antenna or its connection to the motherboard could be damaged. You can then restore your backed-up data during the setup process or later. It allows the phone to understand its orientation in space, detect movement for step counting, enable motion-controlled gaming, and facilitate countless other features that define the modern smartphone experience. The causes behind audio IC failures are diverse, but certain scenarios are particularly prevalent. Close all background applications to ensure the phone is in a relatively idle state before performing specific triggering tests. Multimeter with Continuity Function: To test the integrity of the cable. Match Size: Measure the length and width of the original pad (or the area it covered).

@Reza, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)