[SOLVED] I'm looking for AT MOBILE Spider repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my AT MOBILE Spider. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Colin

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the AT MOBILE Spider and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/850862/Where+do+I+find+an+alarm+clock+repairer
Take a look at comment #486
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/how-to-make-left-soft-key-into-lock-button.620732/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 1:

The AT MOBILE Spider service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a AT MOBILE Spider with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My AT MOBILE Spider was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your AT MOBILE Spider starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/need-to-hire-a-reputable-oneplus-10-pro-screw-up-fixer.4644562/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

External charging ports are arguably the most frequently used and thus most prone to wear. Test in Safe Mode: Boot your phone into Safe Mode (the method varies by phone, usually involves holding the volume down button during boot). Modern smartphones typically integrate Wi-Fi and Bluetooth into a single module, often embedded within the main System-on-Chip (SoC) or as a discrete IC connected to the SoC. Workaround: Chip Transfer (Advanced Micro-Soldering): This is the only method for independent repair to potentially restore fingerprint functionality with a replacement physical button. The PMIC also manages the charging phases: trickle charge (for deeply discharged batteries), constant current (bulk charging), and constant voltage (finishing charge). Cure Time: Varies from minutes to hours, depending on the specific epoxy. This is typically reserved for professional repair shops due to its complexity and risk. Improper Calibration: If the user performs the calibration procedure incorrectly or inconsistently, the phone's understanding of its magnetic environment will be flawed from the outset. If misaligned or obstructed, it may fail to turn off the screen during calls, leading to accidental touches, mute activations, or pocket dialing. If the current stops at a particular level, try to identify which ICs and power rails are supposed to become active at that point. Heat the edges of the screen or back cover with a heat gun/hair dryer. The "no command" error, while a roadblock, is usually surmountable with a systematic approach. "Charges Slowly": Charges much slower than expected, possibly indicating current limiting. Use a fine-tip soldering iron and solder wick (or braid) to carefully remove the excess solder, creating flat, clean pads. Generic adhesive rolls or liquid glues (like B7000) are generally inadequate for achieving reliable water resistance. Professional Diagnosis: Diagnosing a faulty RAM chip at the hardware level typically requires specialized tools (e.g., reballing station, microscopes, oscilloscopes) and expertise in micro-soldering. The combination of solvent and gentle mechanical action will lift the remaining glue. Pop Connectors: Less common, but some components (like main flex cables) might have larger connectors that directly plug in. Proximity Sensor: Make a call to test if the screen turns off when held to the ear. For NAND issues, sometimes connecting to a computer for firmware restore attempts can provide error codes. Hot Air Rework Station: Crucial for desoldering the old connector (especially anchor pins) and can be used for reflowing the new one. This helps to determine if the issue is with your specific pad or the phone. Once a suspect area or component is identified via thermal analysis, disconnect power. Other functions not working (e.g., charging port, microphone): Since the headphone jack is often part of a multi-component flex, if other functions fail, recheck all connections on the new flex cable. Always store sensitive components like logic boards, displays, batteries, flex cables, and small ICs in proper anti-static bags. Sound only in one ear: This could indicate a partial connection, a faulty headphone jack, or even a problem with your headphones. Uninstall them one by one, testing after each uninstallation, until the error disappears. Use appropriate hot air temperature (typically 300-350°C, adjust for board and component size) and airflow settings. It also controls the current supplied to the LEDs, which determines the brightness. Wear and Tear: Over time, spring contacts can lose tension, or flex cables can degrade.

@Belen, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)