[SOLVED] I'm looking for Allview P8 Pro repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my Allview P8 Pro. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Yahya

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the Allview P8 Pro and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/LG+Lucid+4G+LCD+Replacement/87370
Take a look at comment #1386
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Samsung+Galaxy+S25+Edge+Battery+Replacement/190072.
You can also check this video starting from minute 6:

The Allview P8 Pro service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a Allview P8 Pro with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My Allview P8 Pro was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your Allview P8 Pro starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/atrix-mp3-player-users-battery-life.1596549/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Avoid Deep Discharges Frequently: While calibration requires a full discharge, try to avoid regularly letting your battery drain completely. Factory Reset: As a last resort for software issues, a factory reset can clear out any accumulated software glitches or conflicting settings. Replacing it will restore navigation but permanently disable Touch ID. Calibration is the process of teaching the magnetometer to compensate for local magnetic anomalies within the phone itself (e.g., battery, speakers) and external interference, ensuring it provides accurate readings relative to true north. Corrosion Protection: It shields the copper traces from oxidation, moisture, and environmental contaminants. It's the gateway to waking the device from sleep, powering it on, and initiating a restart. Reset Network Settings: Go to Settings > General (or System) > Reset > Reset Network Settings. Apply a thin, even layer of flux to the cleaned pads on the logic board. Separate Panels: Carefully slide the plastic pry tool around the perimeter, reheating areas as needed, to fully separate the panel. In smartphones, the "heatsink" might not be a large finned structure as seen in PCs. Physical Impact (Drops): A fall can dislodge coaxial cables, bend spring contacts, or warp the frame, breaking crucial ground connections. Identify Rogue Apps: If your phone consistently overheats even with light usage, check your battery usage statistics in settings to identify any apps consuming excessive power in the background. After removing the clamps/press, visually inspect the edges of the device for any gaps, lifting, or unevenness in the seal. A meticulous final inspection and cleaning process is the hallmark of a professional repair service. Short circuits: Often caused by liquid damage or mechanical stress on capacitors. Inaccurate Compass: The compass app points in the wrong direction, fluctuates wildly, or doesn't calibrate properly. Reference Boards: Having a known-good (working) logic board of the same model can be invaluable for comparing component appearance, identifying missing components, or checking expected resistance/voltage readings. With the tray removed, use your magnifying glass and flashlight to look directly into the SIM slot opening on the phone's frame. Avoid using sharp objects like needles, paper clips, or toothpicks, as these can easily damage the microphone's internal diaphragm. Initial Scraping (Plastic Tools): Start by gently scraping off the bulk of the old adhesive with a plastic spudger or guitar pick. With the phone's internals fully rebuilt on the new mid-frame, the final steps involve reattaching the display and sealing the device. While direct inspection of layer separation requires advanced tools, some user-level observations can provide crucial clues: A healthy trace will show continuity (a beep or near-zero resistance). Always begin by powering off the phone and disconnecting the battery immediately after opening the device to prevent short circuits or accidental damage to sensitive components. Type rapidly and observe if there's a perceptible delay between your finger touching the screen and the haptic vibration. Open the Device & Disconnect Battery: Follow a reputable repair guide specific to your phone model. Opening Picks: Thin plastic or metal picks used for separating adhesive and lifting screen assemblies. With your fine-tip soldering iron, gently touch the tinned iron tip to the wire and the exposed copper. For a speaker, proper grounding ensures a clear signal path for the audio current, minimizing interference and allowing the speaker to convert electrical signals into sound waves effectively. The repair process typically begins with powering down your smartphone completely.

@Adel, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)