[SOLVED] I'm looking for BBK Vivo Y65 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my BBK Vivo Y65. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Katy

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the BBK Vivo Y65 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/tool-modified-batch-file-for-perm-temp-root.1172160/
Take a look at comment #65
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/q-720p-recording-sound-cut-offs.799289/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 4:

The BBK Vivo Y65 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a BBK Vivo Y65 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My BBK Vivo Y65 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your BBK Vivo Y65 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Info/Delivery_Issues

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Weak Vibration: The vibration is barely noticeable or much weaker than it should be. Optical Image Stabilization (OIS): Many modern smartphone cameras feature OIS, which uses tiny motors and gyroscopes to physically move the camera lens assembly to counteract shaky hands. Clean Area: Clean any dust, debris, or old adhesive residue from the mounting area using isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Vulnerable Openings: Areas directly beneath the charging port, headphone jack, and SIM slot are common entry points for liquids. The phone might constantly search for a network, further contributing to drain. For some, it's easily accessible after removing a few screws and a bracket; for others, it might be buried deeper. Soldering New FEM: Carefully align the new FEM IC onto the clean pads and solder it back onto the logic board using the hot air station. Lightly spray or dab IPA over the suspected area of the short (the entire power line or area indicated by general heat). This could be a broken trace on the motherboard leading to that pin or a damaged pin within the connector. Observation: If damage is visible within the sealed camera module, the module generally requires replacement. If the LCD/OLED panel itself is damaged, refurbishment is generally not possible, and a full replacement display is required. Use a non-conductive tool (like a toothpick) or compressed air to clean it. This compact design presents a considerable challenge for micro-soldering technicians attempting repairs on internal layers or components that become inaccessible once the board is assembled. Quality Part: Use a high-quality replacement lens protector that matches the original specifications. Jumper repair on smartphone PCBs is a hallmark of an advanced micro-soldering technician. After the reset, observe battery performance before reinstalling all your apps. Mechanical Durability: The secured jumper must be robust enough to withstand minor vibrations, impacts, and pressure from reassembly. Magnification (Microscope/Loupe): For inspecting connectors and flex cables. There are primarily three types: capacitive (often rear or side-mounted, or integrated into the home button), optical (commonly found under the display), and ultrasonic (also under-display, usually on premium devices). Replacing this entire system is a highly complex and often problematic repair for independent technicians and virtually impossible for DIY enthusiasts seeking to restore Face ID. Gently dab and lightly rub the dampened cotton swab over the speaker grill. Be extremely careful not to damage the button itself or the delicate flex cable attached to it. Surface for New Adhesive: The cleaned surface must be perfectly smooth and free of oils for new adhesive to bond properly, ensuring water resistance and screen adhesion. This includes the screen, back cover, battery, motherboard, cameras, speakers, vibration motor, charging port flex, buttons, antenna cables, and any small brackets or adhesives. Recommendation: This guide focuses on this method, suitable for experienced technicians or confident DIYers with soldering skills. The risk of further damage is high, and success depends heavily on the technician's experience and meticulous attention to detail. Gently disconnect it from the logic board and carefully peel it from the frame (it's often lightly adhered). This issue can stem from a variety of sources, ranging from simple software glitches and incorrect settings to more serious hardware failures. Connectors: Flex cables should be robust, not flimsy, with precisely aligned and clean gold contact pins. Allowing IPA to Seep: Excessive solvent can damage internal electronics.

@Hamed, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)