[SOLVED] I'm looking for BLACKPHONE B110 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my BLACKPHONE B110. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Crystal

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the BLACKPHONE B110 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Wiki/HP-15-ay052nr_Troubleshooting
Take a look at comment #1715
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/475292/unknown+IMEI+after+motherboard+swap+and+lineageOS.
You can also check this video starting from minute 9:

The BLACKPHONE B110 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a BLACKPHONE B110 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My BLACKPHONE B110 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your BLACKPHONE B110 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/914200/Tv+Smart+TCL+turns+ON+and+after+some+time+it+go+all+black

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Proprietary Tools: Access to legitimate, updated service software is tightly controlled by manufacturers. From the inside of the phone, use a plastic spudger, tweezers, or a dull, flat tool to carefully push out the cracked glass from the inside outwards. Crucial Tip: Perform this step as quickly as possible and minimize air movement to prevent new dust from settling. Charging Issues: Charging port not working, "Liquid detected" warnings, corrosion in the port. Replacing a damaged OLED display assembly is a common repair, and while it requires precision and careful handling due to the delicate nature of the component and its integration, it is a highly achievable task for a patient DIY enthusiast. To conduct a thorough final test, you'll need a few essential items beyond your repair tools. USB-C Port Replacement: If pin misalignment is severe (e.g., broken pins, deeply bent pins that cannot be straightened) or if the port is physically loose or damaged internally, the entire USB-C charging port assembly will likely need replacement. While battery replacement itself doesn't typically threaten your data, any unforeseen issues during the repair could lead to data loss. Damaged Charging Port/Data Port: The USB-C or Lightning port on the phone itself can suffer damage. Patience, attention to detail, and the right tools are key to achieving a clean, durable repair and restoring your smartphone's premium appearance and functionality. Hot Air: Set your hot air station to an appropriate temperature (typically 300-380°C, adjust based on the component size and board type) and airflow. Testing with a known-good display assembly is a definitive diagnostic step. Continue applying heat as needed if the adhesive cools down and becomes difficult to work with. Loose connectors on a smartphone motherboard can be a frustrating and insidious source of intermittent problems, ranging from a flickering display or unresponsive touch to charging issues, camera malfunctions, or even a completely dead device. Disassembly: You will likely need to remove the logic board from the phone to perform this. Do not force it; it should come off easily once all solder points are molten. Rubbing these across the lens, especially if there are tiny dust or grit particles present, is akin to scrubbing with fine sandpaper, creating permanent micro-scratches. Allow to Dry: Ensure all alcohol has completely evaporated and the surfaces are bone dry before proceeding. Power off your phone completely (if it's in a loop, hold the power button until it shuts down, or let its battery drain). Using a very sharp scalpel or specialized underfill removal tools under the microscope, meticulously scrape away the underfill around the edges of the SoC. Carefully detach these components from the old display using tweezers and plastic tools. Look for water droplets, liquid residue, white mineral deposits (from freshwater), or green/blue fuzzy corrosion (from salt/chlorine/sugary water). For USB-C, look for debris stuck between the center contacts or general distortion of the port. For deeper scratches on glass lenses, or when DIY polishing attempts are unsuccessful or too risky, replacing the outer lens glass (sometimes part of a larger camera ring) is often the most effective solution. Another approach is to use a sound level meter (many apps are available for this, though their accuracy varies) while playing a consistent bass tone. Power off the phone and remove external screws (e.g., Pentalobe for iPhones). Carefully touch components around the Tristar/Hydra and other power ICs. Go to Settings > System > System update to check for pending Android OS updates. Thermal Camera: If available, a thermal camera provides an immediate visual representation of heat, making this method very fast and safe. The physical button will still click and function as a home button, but fingerprint recognition will not work.

@Sinan, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)