[SOLVED] I'm looking for BLU View Speed Ultra repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my BLU View Speed Ultra. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Rosemary

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the BLU View Speed Ultra and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/ie-by-socks.455295/
Take a look at comment #1588
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/i-hard-bricked-my-samsung-gt-n7000.3500512/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 6:

The BLU View Speed Ultra service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a BLU View Speed Ultra with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My BLU View Speed Ultra was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your BLU View Speed Ultra starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/i-present-you-ultracorder-forget-about-stupid-sony-video-processing.3813232/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Slowly and carefully turn the screwdriver counter-clockwise while maintaining significant downward pressure. A systematic approach is crucial to pinpoint the exact problem and implement an effective solution. Preventing Leakage: Stopping sound from escaping into the phone's internal cavity, which would result in lower volume and poorer fidelity. Apply new, high-quality adhesive strips specifically designed for phone repair to ensure a secure seal. For example, if the display is blank, find the display connector (e.g., J1001). Antenna Connections: Ensure all antenna flex cables are properly seated, undamaged, and making good contact. If you removed any brackets or protective plates, screw them back into position, ensuring all screws are returned to their original spots and tightened appropriately but not excessively. Remove and reinsert the tray, ensuring the SIM card is properly seated. While the risk of data loss during this repair is low, it’s always better to be safe. Other Electronics: Microwaves, cordless phones, Bluetooth devices, and even some smart home gadgets operating on similar frequencies can interfere with Wi-Fi signals. Aerosol cans are convenient, or dedicated spray guns can be used for better control. This usually involves removing the display, cleaning off old adhesive, addressing any underlying issues (like battery replacement), and re-adhering the display with fresh, strong adhesive. A swelling battery is a serious safety concern and should be addressed immediately. Flux (High-quality, no-clean liquid or paste): Essential for proper solder flow. Visual Check: Turn on the phone in a dark room or shine a bright flashlight directly onto the screen. Damaged plastic/metal housing if the antenna is integrated into the frame. It works in conjunction with other motion sensors like the accelerometer and gyroscope to provide a comprehensive understanding of the phone's position and movement. However, if a particular app is listed with high background activity during screen-off time, that’s your primary suspect. A clean surface ensures proper seating and contact for the new engine. Hot Air Station: For precisely controlled heating and removal/installation of BGA chips. Flex Cable Damage: Inspect the display flex cable itself (especially the portion leading to the connector) for any tears, sharp creases, nicks, or corrosion. Ghost Touches/Phantom Touches: The screen registers touches where no physical contact was made. This usually involves removing specific screws, often around the charging port, and then carefully prying open the display assembly or back cover, which might be secured with adhesive or clips. Drying: Allow ample time for IPA to fully evaporate before reapplying power to the device. Google Pixel (or some phones that enter Fastboot first): Press and hold Volume Down + Power button to enter Fastboot Mode. An open circuit here (e.g., due to a damaged flex cable or lifted pad) will cause no backlight. By meticulously collecting and analyzing system information, technicians can move beyond guesswork, identify the root cause, and implement a targeted, effective repair strategy, whether it's a software tweak or a hardware replacement. Thin Layer: A thin, even layer cures better and looks more professional than a thick, lumpy one. Unexpected network behavior: Unwanted switching of preferred SIM for calls, SMS, or data. Newer iPhones, for instance, store display information in the phone’s firmware which checks against the display’s SN.

@Lindsey, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)