[SOLVED] I'm looking for BLUE TO ME Decade repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my BLUE TO ME Decade. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Nguyen

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the BLUE TO ME Decade and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Google+Pixel+7+Battery+Replacement/154680
Take a look at comment #60
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/GE+29875GE1+Microphone+Replacement/33434.
You can also check this video starting from minute 6:

The BLUE TO ME Decade service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a BLUE TO ME Decade with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My BLUE TO ME Decade was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your BLUE TO ME Decade starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/342785/Battery+is+not+charging+after+screen+replacement

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

ADB Commands (Android): For Android users comfortable with ADB (Android Debug Bridge), the command `adb shell dumpsys battery` can provide detailed raw battery information directly from the system, including voltage, temperature, current, and health status. Test capacitors: In diode mode, a good capacitor will show a reading that slowly climbs (charging the capacitor), then settles to OL. With patience, precision, and the right tools, you can easily restore your device to its pristine condition. This is beyond typical consumer use but provides the most definitive assessment. Always power off your phone completely before starting, and back up your data. It wipes all user data and settings, reverting the phone to its original factory state. Action: Ensure the Wi-Fi adapter drivers on the client device are up to date. Pry Open: Use a suction cup and plastic pry tools to carefully separate the display assembly or back panel from the frame. If your phone doesn't charge on any reliable pad, the problem is almost certainly with your phone. Weather Forecasting: Contributing to local weather predictions by detecting changes in atmospheric pressure. Confirm Bleed: Use an app or a dark wallpaper to display a uniformly black screen. A microscope is an indispensable tool throughout the process for assessment, cleaning, and final inspection. Inspecting for these problems requires a careful examination of internal components, understanding the common failure points, and recognizing the symptoms of poor signal integrity. Carefully reconnect the new screen's flex cables to the logic board (battery last). Also, check the motherboard connectors for bent pins, debris, or corrosion. ESD Protection: Always wear your ESD wrist strap and work on an anti-static mat. A low, controlled temperature (e.g., 40-60°C) can help soften the OCA slightly, making it more pliable and allowing bubbles to escape more easily. Replacing this assembly is a common repair, but its complexity varies significantly depending on the smartphone model, ranging from a relatively straightforward flex cable swap to a more involved process requiring extensive device disassembly. Keep all these screws and brackets meticulously organized using your magnetic mat or labeled containers, noting their exact positions and types. This is often due to a manufacturing defect in the transistor or a minor software glitch. Intermittent detection, where the SIM is recognized sometimes but not others, also falls under this category. Alternatively, for skilled users, a very fine-tip soldering iron with thin solder wire can be used, carefully soldering each pin individually, ensuring no bridges. These testers perform charge/discharge cycles and accurately measure capacity, internal resistance, and voltage under load. Display Replacement: If the LEDs within the display assembly are damaged, or the display's integrated flex cable is the issue, a full display replacement is often the most practical solution. Not Enough Space: Delete old backups, upgrade your cloud storage plan, or use multiple backup methods. While not all issues can be prevented, some practices can help maintain optimal mobile data speeds: Once in recovery mode, you'll see options like "Reboot system now," "Wipe data/factory reset," and "Wipe cache partition." Back Cover/Screen Reinstallation: Clean all old adhesive residue from the phone's frame and the back cover/screen. Test with a Known-Good Display Assembly: This is the most crucial hardware diagnostic step. Tap on the suspicious app and select "Uninstall." If the "Uninstall" button is greyed out, proceed to step 3.

@Fati, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)