Forum Phones & Tablets Repair
Discussion Starter - #1 - 1 week ago

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my Blu Vivo 5R. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.


forum selected answer
Selected Answer


I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.



>>>> Blu Vivo 5R maintenance guide & schematics (pdf + fz)

Good luck

Discussion Starter - #3 - 1 week ago

@Tanja

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the Blu Vivo 5R and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/HP+14-ac151nr+Internal+Speakers+Replacement/115833
Take a look at comment #135
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/746055/Blown+A1+V7A+capacitor.
You can also check this video starting from minute 5:


The Blu Vivo 5R service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a Blu Vivo 5R with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.



emoji scratching head

My Blu Vivo 5R was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your Blu Vivo 5R starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

  • Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
  • Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
  • Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
  • Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
  • Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/replacement-screen.1963245/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

If you ever feel uncomfortable or unsure at any point, do not hesitate to seek professional assistance.## 5. "Insert SIM Card" Prompt: Similar to "No SIM," but often appears immediately upon booting or after a brief delay. The sheer smallness of the components and traces demands a steady hand, excellent vision (magnification is key), and immense patience. If inspection reveals damage to the flex cable, or if reseating the connector doesn't resolve the issue, the most common fix is to replace the entire flex cable assembly that contains the ALS. Pay close attention to the camera cutout and any other cutouts (e.g., flash, microphone hole). Reseating Connector: If the flex cable connector is loose, carefully reseating it can restore contact. Creating a Patch (for missing or severely damaged tabs): This is an advanced technique. Unscrew: Using your precision Phillips screwdriver, carefully remove all screws securing the display module. Set the multimeter to continuity mode (often shares a symbol with diode mode, or a speaker icon). Android: In some Android versions or custom ROMs, there might be a "Sensor Calibration" option in Developer Options or specialized apps. Move the nozzle in a gentle, circular motion over the sensor, ensuring even heat distribution. Data Corruption (Rare but Severe): While typically handled by error-checking mechanisms, severe RAM issues could theoretically lead to minor data corruption in files that are actively being processed, though this is less common than app crashes. If the flickering persists after a factory reset (before restoring backups), it's almost certainly a hardware issue. Moderate Corrosion: If corrosion is present but localized, careful cleaning, component replacement (e.g., charging port), and re-sealing might salvage the device. Physical Damage: If the port feels loose or has visible physical damage, it's a strong indicator of a hardware issue. For Complex Damage: If the damage extends beyond the screen (e.g., frame bent, visible motherboard damage, water damage), a professional has the expertise and specialized tools to diagnose and repair multiple issues. They are generally not designed to be repaired at the component level by a technician in a repair shop. Antenna locations vary; they might be along the edges of the phone frame, on separate flex cables running along the back, or integrated into the display assembly or speaker module. Delayed Touch Response: There's a noticeable lag between a touch input and the device's reaction. Progression: Did it appear suddenly, or has it been getting worse over time? Clean Area: Use isopropyl alcohol and a clean microfiber cloth to thoroughly clean the area where the vibration motor and new bracket will sit. A severely degraded battery might struggle to provide peak current during boot. Puncturing them releases toxic, flammable electrolytes, potentially leading to smoke, fire, or even explosion. Look for any apps or system processes showing unusually high battery consumption, particularly if the phone is idle. Tighten/Replace Screws/Brackets: Ensure all screws are present and tightened. This will redownload and decrypt your backed-up secure folder contents into your new secure folder. They minimize the risk of bending the frame or damaging internal components due to uneven prying. Plastic Spudger: For prying, disconnecting flex cables, and manipulating components. eMMC/UFS Reballing/Replacement (Advanced Micro-soldering): For highly specialized micro-soldering technicians, it might be possible to desolder and replace the eMMC/UFS chip. Before resorting to disassembling the phone, begin with external visual cues and functional checks that might suggest an internal frame issue.

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

Page top