[SOLVED] I'm looking for DARK Evo P60 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my DARK Evo P60. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Amanda

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the DARK Evo P60 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/584623/PS4+Overheating+after+cleaning+out+and+replacing+fan
Take a look at comment #425
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/sd-card-compatability.661925/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 2:

The DARK Evo P60 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a DARK Evo P60 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My DARK Evo P60 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your DARK Evo P60 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/183952/I+have+a+Westinghouse+model+RT1936+It+leaks+water+inside.

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Upgrading/Downgrading SIM Card Size: Moving from a micro-SIM to a nano-SIM or vice-versa (though most modern phones use nano-SIMs). Carefully align the new microSD card slot with the cleaned solder pads on the motherboard. Incompatible/Faulty Screen: The new screen itself might be defective or not fully compatible. Common `fastboot` commands include `fastboot devices` (to check connection), `fastboot reboot` (to exit Fastboot and reboot normally), `fastboot flash` (to write partitions), and `fastboot oem unlock` (to unlock the bootloader). Correct Tools: Always use precision screwdrivers matching the exact screw head type (e.g., Pentalobe for iPhones, specific Phillips for Androids). Painter's Tape or Clear Packing Tape: To cover the cracked glass and prevent shards from scattering during removal. Look for options like "LED indicator," "Pulse notification light," or "Notification light." Ensure this feature is enabled. If an incoming voltage exceeds a safe threshold, a Zener diode can clamp the voltage by shunting the excess current to ground, protecting sensitive components. Corrosion: Exposure to liquids (water, sweat, soda, etc.) or high humidity can cause the multiple internal pins of the USB-C port to corrode. It involves generating metal shavings, heat, and vibration, all of which are detrimental to smartphone components. Using your magnification device and bright light, thoroughly inspect all connectors on the motherboard. A phone with failing OIS will consistently produce blurrier images in these conditions compared to a working one. Software interacts directly with hardware components through drivers and APIs. Short Circuit Check: Measure resistance between VBUS and GND pins on the port. After the new camera glass is securely in place and the adhesive has cured, perform a thorough visual inspection. Anti-static Mat and Wrist Strap: To protect sensitive electronic components from static discharge. Purpose: Model-specific adhesive strips (e.g., for iPhone display or Samsung back glass) that restore the factory seal, and some level of water/dust resistance. Software Conflicts: Two or more apps, or an app and the operating system, might be clashing. Do not attempt this without specialized equipment and training, as you risk destroying the entire logic board. Circuit Diagrams (Schematics): These are graphical representations of an electronic circuit, showing the electrical connections between components using standardized symbols. Improper Insertion/Removal: Pulling cables at an angle, forcing them in, or wiggling them out causes stress and friction. To overcome this, manufacturers strategically integrate plastic or glass "windows" into the metal frame, allowing signals to pass freely. Diagnosing the issue often involves ruling out software glitches first, but if the problem persists after reboots, software updates, and resets, a hardware replacement becomes necessary. Flex Cable Replacement: If the ambient light sensor is integrated into a flex cable assembly (which is highly likely) and you observe physical damage or corrosion on that cable, the most common solution is to replace the entire flex cable assembly. The oleophobic coating is a thin, oil-repellent layer applied to the surface of most modern smartphone screens. Aesthetics: A visibly cracked or bent frame significantly detracts from the phone's appearance and resale value. Microscope: For visual inspection of tiny components and solder joints. Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) (90%+) and Microfiber Cloth: For cleaning the frame. Component Protection: Use Kapton tape or aluminum foil to shield sensitive ICs or plastic components from hot air. Burnt Components: Look for any discolored, swollen, or visibly burnt components, especially the boost coil, diode, or the backlight driver IC itself.

@Sergey, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)