[SOLVED] I'm looking for Doogee V Max Plus repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my Doogee V Max Plus. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Ilyas

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the Doogee V Max Plus and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/please-help-me-with-this.2716127/
Take a look at comment #1432
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/603441/Ticwatch+showing+lightning+bolt+icon+and+watch+can't+be+turn+on..
You can also check this video starting from minute 2:

The Doogee V Max Plus service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a Doogee V Max Plus with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My Doogee V Max Plus was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your Doogee V Max Plus starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/553083/iPhone+doesn't+work+after+charging

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Correct Thermal Paste: Use only non-electrically conductive thermal paste. Unlike a mere component failure, a short circuit indicates an unintended low-resistance path between two points in an electrical circuit that should not be connected, often between a power rail and ground. Adhesive Strips: If your phone's back cover or screen relies on adhesive for reassembly and water resistance. Remove Magnetic Accessories: If using a magnetic phone case or holder, remove it and retest the sensors. Repairing a smartphone with a damaged antenna amplifier is a challenging task, often requiring advanced diagnostic and repair skills. Use a fine-tip applicator (toothpick) to wick the adhesive into the cracks. This isn't wear of the pins, but it causes wear and connection issues. Successful onboarding is the first step to enjoying a new smartphone, making its troubleshooting vital. Look for keywords like "thermal," "temperature," "overheat," "throttling." You might notice apps taking slightly longer to open the very first time after the cache is cleared, as they rebuild their own individual caches. The core of the problem usually lies in how the new software version interacts with your phone's hardware and installed applications. Data Transfer Failure: Computer does not recognize the device or transfer is unstable. A transmitting coil in the charging pad creates an alternating magnetic field, which then induces an electric current in a receiving coil inside the smartphone. Use a high-quality, lint-free microfiber cloth specifically designed for optics (often sold for camera lenses, eyeglasses, or computer screens). Again, the "Pointer location" option in Android's Developer Options is invaluable for diagnosing this. However, for a severe leakage, a capacitor might show a very low resistance (near short) across its terminals, indicating a direct path for current. Non-Metallic Dental Pick: Similar to a toothpick but often thinner and angled, useful for tight spaces. For example, it stays dim in bright sunlight or excessively bright in a dark room. Continue cleaning until both surfaces are immaculately clean, dry, and free of any contaminants. If your new gasket is a pre-cut adhesive strip, carefully peel off one side of its protective backing. You may need specialized forensic tools or file system explorers (like WinHex, FTK Imager, or specific Android data extraction tools) to parse this raw image, identify the file system (ext4, F2FS), and extract readable files. Heat Gun or Heating Pad: Used during disassembly to soften old adhesive and sometimes gently to aid in the adhesion of the new gasket. The most common causes for a damaged audio jack are physical trauma (e.g., dropping the phone while headphones are plugged in, forcing an incompatible plug), liquid damage (causing corrosion), or simply wear and tear over time from repeated plugging and unplugging. Logic Board Component Issues: The Power Management Integrated Circuit (PMIC) is responsible for regulating power distribution throughout the phone. Small Modules: The vibrator motor, speaker module, earpiece speaker, or even an entire camera module (if its mounting points break) can become dislodged. Be extremely cautious of flex cables that connect the screen to the motherboard. Water Resistance: Replacing any component that breaks the factory seal will compromise the device's water resistance. Disconnect Battery: Immediately disconnect the battery flex cable from the motherboard. "Original" IMEI Restoration (Rare): In some very specific, rare instances, and only with manufacturer approval and proprietary tools, an original IMEI might be written back if the original number is verifiable and the replacement board is designed for such programming. Understand Risks: Be aware that unlocking the bootloader voids your warranty and introduces security vulnerabilities.

@Gabi, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)