[SOLVED] I'm looking for EKO DEVICES Sole POP repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my EKO DEVICES Sole POP. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Adil

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the EKO DEVICES Sole POP and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/901870/Regarding+ipf8400s+Cannon+Plotter+(E144-4047)
Take a look at comment #448
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/50683/Why+does+this+machine+periodically+shut+off.
You can also check this video starting from minute 2:

The EKO DEVICES Sole POP service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a EKO DEVICES Sole POP with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My EKO DEVICES Sole POP was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your EKO DEVICES Sole POP starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/q-does-not-answer-my-s-iii.2174197/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Clear Workspace: Work on a clean, stable surface, preferably an ESD-safe mat. Test with Multimeter: Check for continuity or resistance on the speaker terminals on the logic board to ensure the circuit isn't open or shorted before the amplifier. After flashing, you might need to manually `fastboot reboot` or select "Start" in Fastboot Mode. Battery Disconnection: Disconnect the battery immediately to prevent any power issues. While not directly part of IMEI programming, a proper repair might involve restoring other NVRAM components. Diagnosing the root cause of a restart loop is crucial, as it can stem from either software corruption or a critical hardware failure. iPhone X/XS/XR/11/12/13/14 Series Extenders: These are the most common examples, designed specifically for the two-layer stacked logic boards. Regular Port Cleaning: The charging port and headphone jack (if present) can accumulate lint, dust, and debris from pockets or bags. The evaluation should proceed systematically, from external visual checks to internal inspection and functional tests. Battery Saver Mode: Some battery saver modes or low power modes automatically disable non-essential features like haptic feedback to conserve power. Safe Mode starts the phone with only essential system apps, helping you identify if a third-party application is causing the problem. Visually inspect the connections to confirm they are seated correctly. Remove them via "Settings" -> "General" -> "VPN & Device Management" (or "Profiles"). Physical Stress/Impact: Drops, bends, or twisting of the phone can put mechanical strain on solder joints, causing them to fracture. The goal is to restore their original shape and ensure they will make firm, even contact. Secure Flex: Place the removed charging flex cable on your anti-static, heat-resistant work surface, securing it with Kapton tape or a PCB holder. Apply Flux: Apply a small amount of quality flux around the edges of the NAND chip. Search the logs for keywords such as: "charger," "battery," "power," "thermal," "charging," "voltage," "current," "health," "error." Review which apps have access to your location and whether they need it "Always" or "Only while using the app." Restrict unnecessary access. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process of safely accessing, inspecting, and potentially rectifying issues with these delicate but essential components. Damaged Display Assembly: The LCD/OLED panel or the digitizer (touch layer) is physically damaged. This means that a straightforward "swap and replace" procedure, common for other components like the display or battery, does not apply to the TrueDepth system if Face ID functionality is to be retained. Flex Cable Damage: The flex cable connecting the sensor to the motherboard is damaged or loose. These tiny components are absolutely essential for the stability, protection, and overall functionality of your smartphone. Apply Heat: Move the hot air nozzle evenly over the entire board, ensuring all areas are thoroughly dried. The good news is that many of these problems are fixable, and often, the solution is simpler than you might expect. Compare Readings: Compare these readings to your cable charging baseline. You might need to add more adhesive or apply clamps for a longer period. Always know where the cables are located and avoid inserting tools too deeply or prying directly over them. A single slip of the separation wire or too much force can easily crack the LCD/OLED, render the digitizer unresponsive, or create dead pixels, turning a potentially cheaper repair into a more expensive full assembly replacement.

@Phillip, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)