[SOLVED] I'm looking for EVERCOSS R45 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my EVERCOSS R45. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Sarah

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the EVERCOSS R45 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/373383/capslock+flashing+and+black+screen
Take a look at comment #1668
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/345615/Printer+does+not+want+to+print+at+all.
You can also check this video starting from minute 5:

The EVERCOSS R45 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a EVERCOSS R45 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My EVERCOSS R45 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your EVERCOSS R45 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/603643/Differing+Layouts+Please+Help

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

When using compressed air, hold the can upright and spray in short, controlled bursts from a distance of about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm). - Regularly check for signs of battery swelling (a bulging back cover or screen lifting). A special eMMC reader then communicates directly with the storage chip to extract raw data. Water Damage Indicators: If the frame has warped, it likely compromises the device's water resistance. When coils are not perfectly aligned, more energy is lost as heat rather than being transferred as electrical power. Press and hold Volume Up + Power button simultaneously (or Volume Down + Power, or all three buttons: Volume Up + Volume Down + Power). Be mindful of any flex cables (e.g., fingerprint sensor, wireless charging coil) that might connect the back cover to the main board. Extenders make it feasible to perform reballing on a single board layer without having to worry about the thermal impact on the other layer. Reason: Manufacturers often release updates that include bug fixes for connectivity and thermal management. Reinstall Driver: If updating fails, right-click, select "Uninstall device," and then restart your computer. You cannot simply replace a faulty IR Emitter or Dot Projector with a new one (even an original part from another iPhone) and expect Face ID to work. Isopropyl Alcohol (90%+): To dissolve adhesive residue and clean the frame. Here, you'll see a graph of battery discharge over time and a list of apps and system services, ranked by their battery consumption percentage. Safely opening a smartphone is the foundational skill for almost any internal repair. Cheaper alternatives might have poorly manufactured flex cables or connectors, increasing the risk of issues. Debris: Check for any internal debris or obstructions not visible externally. Boost Coil (Inductor): Works in conjunction with the driver IC to store and release energy, creating the boosted voltage. Dedicated Flux Removers/Cleaners: Specialized chemical sprays are available that are formulated to dissolve various types of flux, often more effectively than IPA, especially for "no-clean" fluxes that can be surprisingly stubborn. If it still crashes, tap "Clear data" (be aware this will erase all app-specific settings and log you out). While it doesn't read the internal battery temperature directly, it can quickly identify hot spots on the device's exterior. Inspect Flex Cables: Once inside, locate the display/digitizer flex cable(s) that connect to the logic board. Integrated into a larger flex cable (e.g., charging port flex often has antennas). While it offers a pathway to repairing otherwise unfixable devices, it should only be attempted by highly skilled technicians with extensive experience in BGA rework, as even the slightest error can lead to irreversible damage to the entire motherboard.6. If the motor is glued directly into the bracket, you'll remove both together. Power Management IC (PMIC) Issues: The PMIC oversees various power functions across the device. This prevents any power from flowing through the device during the repair. Varies in Severity: The intensity of the burn-in can range from a very subtle, barely noticeable shadow to a distinct, distracting outline. Dip a lint-free wipe or coffee filter in IPA and gently wipe away all traces of the old thermal paste from both surfaces. While smartphones are designed with some level of protection against minor voltage variations, a significant power surge can overwhelm these safeguards, leading to irreversible damage to internal components. Connect to Computer: See if the phone is recognized by a computer (iTunes/Finder for iPhone, various tools for Android).

@Nestor, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)