[SOLVED] I'm looking for FAMOCO PX310 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my FAMOCO PX310. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Giovanna

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the FAMOCO PX310 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/748166/Chinese+battery+iPhone+SE+1st+Gen
Take a look at comment #369
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/574912/Appears+that+camera+connection+to+thermal+plate+is+missing.
You can also check this video starting from minute 3:

The FAMOCO PX310 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a FAMOCO PX310 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My FAMOCO PX310 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your FAMOCO PX310 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/ios7-keyboard-with-swype-feature.2709061/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

This issue can stem from various causes, including physical damage, dirt and debris accumulation, or internal component failure. Using fine tweezers, carefully place the new microphone component in the correct orientation. You may decline or offer to proceed only with explicit acknowledgment of the risks and additional fees. Built-in Android Dial Codes: Many Android manufacturers have hidden diagnostic menus accessible via dialer codes (e.g., `#0#` for Samsung, `##4636##` for general info). ESD-safe Mat and Wrist Strap: To prevent further damage from static electricity. Carefully reassemble the smartphone, connecting all flex cables and the battery. Replacement Flex Cable (if camera uses one separate from the module): Some phones have a separate flex cable connecting the camera to the motherboard. Sharp creases, tears, or nicks can sever internal traces, even if the connector pins look fine. At this stage, professional repair would be necessary, involving the inspection of the motherboard for physical damage or liquid ingress near the sensor chip, and potentially a replacement of the sensor or the entire logic board. A simple reboot can often clear minor software bugs that might be preventing the haptic engine from engaging. System Cache Partition: This is a system-wide cache used by the Android OS itself. Use Boardview: Boardview software allows you to highlight a trace and see all components and vias connected to it, making this step much easier. Aftermarket Parts: High-quality OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) or premium aftermarket parts are always recommended for sensors, as cheaper parts can be unreliable or incompatible. Are any pins bent, or does the metal housing itself look distorted or corroded? If so, replace the cable. Simplified Repair (sometimes): In some designs, a separate COF flex allows for easier replacement of the display panel itself, as the driver IC is part of the integrated display assembly rather than a separate component on the main board. It will still be connected by flex cables, usually located on one side or at the bottom. Frequent Disconnections: The phone connects to Wi-Fi but drops the connection repeatedly. Look for signs of liquid damage (water indicators, corrosion near ports or microphone holes). If the app registers a press but the phone doesn't respond as expected, it might point to a software conflict rather than a hardware issue with the flex. The modem in a smartphone is a critical component responsible for all wireless communication, including cellular data (2G, 3G, 4G, 5G), calls, SMS, and sometimes Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. Be mindful of any flex cables (e.g., fingerprint sensor, wireless charging coil) that might connect the back cover to the main board. Observe Raw Pressure Data: In the sensor testing app, find the barometer or pressure sensor section, which will display pressure readings (often in hPa, mbar, or kPa). Compressed Air (oil-free): For blowing away loose debris and aiding drying. Aggressive or Abusive Behavior: No repairer should tolerate verbal abuse, threats, or unreasonable demands. For high-value OLED screens that need to be salvaged or reused (e.g., just replacing the frame or battery): Cold plate is generally safer for the display itself. Most modern phones open from the front (screen) or the back (glass/plastic panel). It might reach recovery mode or fastboot/download mode, but cannot boot the OS. Allow the glue to become slightly tacky for a minute or two (consult the glue instructions). From selfies and video calls to facial recognition (like Face ID) and augmented reality filters, its functionality is paramount. Disconnect Display Flex Cables: Before fully separating the display, it will be connected to the motherboard by one or more flex cables (for the LCD panel and the digitizer/touchscreen).

@Flora, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)