[SOLVED] I'm looking for FIG Flip repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my FIG Flip. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Marion

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the FIG Flip and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Watch++Battery+Replacement/50199
Take a look at comment #111
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/366140/Pc+is+making+everything+white,+And+im+not+admin.
You can also check this video starting from minute 6:

The FIG Flip service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a FIG Flip with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My FIG Flip was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your FIG Flip starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/872313/My+iHome+iAVS16+isn%E2%80%99t+working+at+all

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

File-Based Encryption (FBE): Encrypts individual files and directories. Action: After initial diagnostics, explain the multitude of issues and the combined cost. This usually involves removing screws, heating adhesive around the screen or back cover, and carefully prying it open. Test Original SIM in Another Phone: If possible, test your original SIM card in another phone to ensure it's still functional. Exploiting MTP/PTP modes: Some tools leverage vulnerabilities in how the phone handles Media Transfer Protocol (MTP) or Picture Transfer Protocol (PTP) to push specific commands or files. These include the USB C/Lightning port, the battery itself, the temperature sensors within the phone and battery, and the charging cable/adapter. The impact can also deform metal brackets or compress rubber gaskets beyond their recovery point. A clean and smooth mid-frame is not just about aesthetics; it's crucial for the proper seating of a new screen, ensuring a secure seal, preventing screen lifting, and minimizing future damage. Loose Connections: Without the clip, the flex cable connector might not stay perfectly seated, especially after a minor drop or vibration. Gentle heat (around 60-80°C) applied to the edges helps soften the adhesive, allowing the use of thin prying tools to separate the components. These imperfections, no matter how small, can create microscopic gaps that a new gasket cannot fully bridge, leading to potential leak paths. Appropriate Force: Never use excessive force when separating components. Patience, attention to detail, and the right tools are key to achieving a clean, durable repair and restoring your smartphone's premium appearance and functionality. Use a very fine brush or a toothpick to gently dislodge stubborn residue. Modern smartphone displays, especially AMOLED panels, offer a wide color gamut, and manufacturers often provide different "color modes" or "screen modes" to cater to various preferences or use cases. However, simply bridging a connection is not enough; for maximum reliability and longevity of the repair, the advanced placement and securing of jumper wires demand meticulous precision, the right materials, and a deep understanding of electrical principles. After attempting to clean the mesh, it is essential to re-test the earpiece functionality. For smartphone boards, a cleaning solution of 99% IPA or a specialized non-ionic PCB cleaning solution mixed with distilled water is recommended. Network Reset (Android): Go to `Settings > System > Reset options > Reset Wi-Fi, mobile & Bluetooth` (or similar). Tweezers (Fine-tipped): For handling tiny screws, flex cables, and connectors. Ensure all components are correctly installed and all flex cables are connected. Logic board traces: The electrical pathways on the logic board that carry the button's signal. Flex Cable Integrity: Check the entire battery flex cable for any tears, creases, or kinks, especially near the connector. Disconnect Battery: Always disconnect the battery first to prevent any short circuits. Thermal Camera: While a coil itself might not get excessively hot unless it's shorted or dissipating a lot of power, a thermal camera can help identify an open coil by showing that subsequent components in the power rail are cool (not receiving power) while the component feeding the coil might be normal or even hotter if it's trying to push current through an open circuit. Partial Component Failure: Specific functions (e.g., Wi-Fi, audio, backlighting) might not work due to the PMIC failing to supply correct voltage to their respective ICs. Network Outage/Maintenance: Temporary network issues on the carrier's side can disrupt provisioning. Intermittent Charging: The phone only charges when the cable is wiggled, held at a specific angle, or requires multiple attempts to initiate charging. Fingernail/Thin Tool Test (Extreme Caution): Very gently try to run your fingernail or a thin, non-abrasive plastic spudger along the seam. However, beneath the surface of stunning visuals, some OLED panels can exhibit an issue known as "flicker." This phenomenon, often imperceptible to the naked eye but sometimes noticeable as eye strain, headaches, or even visual artifacts, occurs when the screen rapidly cycles its brightness to achieve lower light levels.

@Ximena, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)