[SOLVED] I'm looking for G PLUS P10 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my G PLUS P10. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Irene

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the G PLUS P10 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/872919/Display+Assembly+2012+MB+Air+%3E+2015+MB+Air
Take a look at comment #971
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Motorola+Buzz+ic502+Screen+and+Speaker+Replacement/74617.
You can also check this video starting from minute 10:

The G PLUS P10 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a G PLUS P10 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My G PLUS P10 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your G PLUS P10 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/700653/Repaired+phone+won't+turn+on+and+is+frying+USB+ports

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Remove Top Liner: Once you are confident the gasket is securely attached to the frame, carefully peel off the top protective liner, exposing the adhesive surface that will bond with the screen. If the ghost charging is causing electrical anomalies, it can destabilize the operating system, leading to unexpected shutdowns or freezes. Anti-Static Mat and ESD Wrist Strap: Vital for protecting delicate electronic components from electrostatic discharge. Power on your phone and test the speaker by playing some music, watching a video, or making a call. Power on the device and perform a full functional test to ensure all systems (charging, display, touch, audio, Wi-Fi, cellular, etc.) are working correctly. Work slowly around the perimeter, avoiding inserting the tool too deep to prevent damaging internal flex cables. Poor Grounding: Loose screws, broken ground straps, or cold solder joints compromise the effectiveness of grounding, making the board susceptible to EMI. Most modern smartphones require removing the back cover, which is often secured with adhesive and/or small screws. Carefully and slowly peel the old flex cable away from the frame using tweezers or a plastic spudger. Follow this with a cotton swab lightly dampened with isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface and edges of the button, ensuring no sticky residue remains. Reduce Animations: In Developer Options or Accessibility settings, you can often reduce or turn off animation scales (e.g., Window animation scale, Transition animation scale, Animator duration scale). This is the more reliable option for soft bricks but will cause data loss. It often runs from the button assembly to a connector on the motherboard or a sub-board. Compressibility: Some pads are softer and more compressible, allowing them to conform better to uneven surfaces. Replace Brackets and Screws: Reinstall all metal brackets and small screws in their original positions. Clean the Frame: Once the frame is straightened, clean it thoroughly, especially around the edges where the screen/back cover attaches. Furthermore, if your GPS accuracy seems degraded, especially in mountainous or hilly terrain where altitude data is critical for 3D positioning, a faulty barometer could be a contributing factor. Internal Contacts: While harder to see without desoldering, suspect internal contact issues if the button feels fine but doesn't register. A short to ground on a power rail is a strong indicator of a faulty component on that line. This placement is advantageous for signal integrity but significantly complicates repairs due to the extreme heat sensitivity of flex cables and LCD/OLED panels. If the original flex cable is irreparably damaged, Face ID will, regrettably, remain non-functional.## 8. Reading Partition Info: The eMMC tool will attempt to read the eMMC's capacity, health, and current partition layout. DFU Mode: Put the iPhone into DFU (Device Firmware Update) mode (specific steps vary by model). Anti-static Mat and Wrist Strap: To prevent electrostatic discharge damage. Corrosion: Use 99% isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush (like an old toothbrush) or a cotton swab to carefully clean away all corrosion from the pins and surrounding area. Download and Install Drivers: Download and install the latest USB drivers for your phone on your computer (e.g., Samsung Smart Switch for Samsung devices, or universal ADB drivers). Cracks can compromise water resistance, bent frames can put undue pressure on the screen or motherboard, and internal components might become dislodged or damaged. Smartphone screen ghosting, also known as image retention or burn-in, refers to a phenomenon where faint outlines or remnants of previously displayed images remain visible on the screen, even after the content has changed. The camera lens cover on a smartphone, while seemingly a minor component, plays a critical role in the device's photographic capabilities. Initial Engagement: Gently press the screen/back cover into place, ensuring it makes contact with the exposed adhesive along the entire perimeter.

@Hamid, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)