[SOLVED] I'm looking for GOOD ONE 5605N repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my GOOD ONE 5605N. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Mark

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the GOOD ONE 5605N and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/305470/My+screen+isn't+working,+how+can+I+fix+it!
Take a look at comment #1025
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/877233/FixHub+no+longer+turns+on+after+2+days+-+please+help.
You can also check this video starting from minute 9:

The GOOD ONE 5605N service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a GOOD ONE 5605N with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My GOOD ONE 5605N was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your GOOD ONE 5605N starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Dye+a+Used+Shirt/142434

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

If the metal was originally brushed, specialized techniques are needed to replicate the brushed finish. Transfer Components (if necessary): Some display assemblies come as "bare" units, meaning you might need to transfer components like the earpiece speaker, front camera, proximity sensor, ambient light sensor, or even the home button/fingerprint sensor from the old display to the new one. If the device cannot be saved, the primary goal shifts to data recovery. Cut the Adhesive: Carefully slide the opening pick around the perimeter of the phone, slowly cutting through the adhesive. Using the same hot air station settings as before, evenly heat the new chip. A high-quality digital multimeter with precise low-resistance measurement capabilities is essential. This is a strong indicator of a disconnected or severely damaged antenna or Wi-Fi module. A new replacement rear camera module: Ensure it's compatible with your specific phone model. Open the Google Play Store and check for updates for all your installed apps, especially Google apps and the Camera app. If the buttons don't work: Power off, disconnect the battery, and recheck the connection of the flex cable to the motherboard and ensure the button pads on the flex are properly aligned. The goal is to restore their straightness and uniform spacing without applying excessive force, which could easily break a pin off completely. Unusually high current draw without actual charging progress, or unstable voltage, can indicate a problem with the charger, cable, or the phone's charging circuit. Replacing the internal plastic display spacer is a substantial repair that demands meticulous organization, patience, and attention to detail due to the complete disassembly and reassembly of the phone. Downloads Folder: Check your `Downloads` folder for large, forgotten files (installer APKs, old documents, videos). This helps identify exact test points, potential vias, or intermediate components that might be at fault. Charging Port Flex Cable Damage: Many phones have the charging port on a separate flex cable that connects to the motherboard. Amperage Draw (Diagnostic): When connected to a DC power supply, the phone will show an elevated current draw even in standby or powered-off states (after initial boot current spikes). Intermittent Functionality: The most common symptom, where a function works sometimes and not others, often exacerbated by movement or vibration. Look for Physical Damage: Inspect the phone for any signs of recent physical damage, such as dents, bends in the frame, or a cracked screen, particularly if the problem appeared after a drop. Reconnect Logic Board Flexes: Reconnect all flex cables to the logic board that were disconnected earlier. Connect the display and battery to the motherboard, and attempt to power on the device. Flex Cables: Many modules (camera, display, charging port with NFC/mic) connect via flex cables. Monitor the PMIC area (using a thermal camera if available, or carefully by touch) for any immediate or excessive heat. Check Call Volume: While seemingly obvious, sometimes the call volume might be too low, or conversely, set too high, leading to distortion at maximum levels. These tiny specks, though seemingly minor, indicate a compromise in the phone's sealed display assembly or its structural integrity. Fine-tip Tweezers: For handling small screws and delicate flex cables. Position the Shield: Carefully position the new shielding can onto the cleaned pads on the mainboard, ensuring correct orientation and alignment. Test the specific function of the repaired connector (e.g., plug in a charger and verify charging and data transfer; connect the display and check image quality and touch responsiveness; test the camera). Do not insert tools too deeply into the device, as this can sever flex cables or damage internal components. Detecting motherboard flex damage requires a systematic understanding of symptoms and often a physical inspection, which typically necessitates opening the device.

@Kim, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)