[SOLVED] I'm looking for GOOD ONE G5605N repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my GOOD ONE G5605N. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Jhonatan

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the GOOD ONE G5605N and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Macintosh+PowerBook+1400+Series+Keyboard+Replacement/5398
Take a look at comment #677
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Hipstreet+Titan+Plus+Camera+Replacement/53446.
You can also check this video starting from minute 3:

The GOOD ONE G5605N service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a GOOD ONE G5605N with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My GOOD ONE G5605N was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your GOOD ONE G5605N starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Troubleshooting/Keurig_K-Duo

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

If it runs stably after a factory reset, the problem was software-related. Disconnect Battery: Immediately after opening, locate and disconnect the battery flex cable from the logic board. Visual Inspection (External): Look for signs of water damage (corrosion), burn marks, or discolored components around the PMIC (Power Management IC) area. Check for Malware: Run a reputable antivirus scan, especially if you've installed apps from outside official app stores. Disclaimer: Opening your smartphone typically voids its warranty and carries a risk of damaging components if not done correctly. Plastic Opening Tools/Spudgers: Essential for prying open the device and disconnecting delicate flex cables without causing damage. Clear Cache for Other Apps: Identify any apps that you were using just before the error occurred. Accelerometer/Gyroscope: Some Android devices (usually in older versions or specific OEM skins) have a "Calibration" option in settings (e.g., `Settings > Display > Advanced > G-Sensor calibration` or `Settings > Accessibility > Motion & gesture`). Wi-Fi icon disappears/reappears: The Wi-Fi indicator in the status bar frequently vanishes, only to return shortly after. Incorrect or Low-Quality Screen Replacement Part: Some aftermarket screens have poorly manufactured sensor windows (e.g., too opaque, incorrect tint, or imprecise cutouts) that impede IR light. They can perform advanced diagnostics, check voltage lines, and possibly repair the motherboard. Integrated Antennas: Sometimes the antenna is designed directly into the main PCB or a sub-board. As it reaches its melting point, it will become visibly shiny and fluid. This typically involves using a heat gun or heating plate to soften the adhesive holding the display assembly to the phone frame, followed by gentle prying with thin plastic tools (spudgers or playing cards). These gaps, ideally, should be uniform in width along all sides of the tray. Solder paste (a mixture of tiny solder spheres and flux) is applied evenly over the stencil, filling each hole. Check SIM Tray: Ensure the SIM tray isn't bent or damaged, which could prevent proper contact with the SIM card reader. Obvious Tears: A complete severance or visible fraying of the flexible material. Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from any flying debris or solvent splashes. Set Multimeter: Set to continuity mode (beeper) or low resistance range. Bluetooth Latency Checkers: Some PC software tools or even specialized apps can report the latency of a Bluetooth audio connection, particularly if used with specific codecs. Other Damage: A deeper motherboard issue (e.g., a shorted trace or damaged IC) could be preventing the button from signaling. Verify the security type (WPA2 PSK is standard and recommended; avoid WEP if possible). Test in Safe Mode: Boot the phone into Safe Mode (varies by manufacturer). While counter-intuitive to force stop the System UI itself, sometimes the system manages to recover. If hardware is indeed the problem, especially a faulty microphone, consider professional repair. Fine-Tipped Probes: Sharp, precise probes for making contact with tiny pads without slipping. These include the USB C/Lightning port, the battery itself, the temperature sensors within the phone and battery, and the charging cable/adapter. Even one damaged pad can cause partial or complete failure of the component it serves. Error Logs (Advanced): Accessing Android's logcat (via ADB) can sometimes reveal low-level I/O errors, read/write failures, or filesystem corruption messages originating from the eMMC.

@Billy, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)