[SOLVED] I'm looking for HTC 10 LTE-A NA repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my HTC 10 LTE-A NA. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Sabina

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the HTC 10 LTE-A NA and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Kurio+7+Back+Panel+Replacement/25418
Take a look at comment #1496
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/xiaomi-mix-fold-3-needs-a-forum.4617659/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 2:

The HTC 10 LTE-A NA service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a HTC 10 LTE-A NA with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My HTC 10 LTE-A NA was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your HTC 10 LTE-A NA starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/bottom-softbar-blocking-java-apps.443157/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

By diligently removing these chemical remnants, technicians ensure the long-term reliability, electrical integrity, and aesthetic quality of their work. Ensure all old solder is removed, leaving perfectly flat and shiny copper pads. Allow the adhesive to become slightly tacky for a minute or two (as per adhesive instructions) before carefully placing the new camera glass into position. Make several calls to different contacts to confirm consistent audio quality. Screen Press or Clamps: Crucial for applying even, sustained pressure across the entire perimeter of the device while the new adhesive sets. Locate Thermistor: Using a microscope, identify the problematic thermistor. Appearance: Extremely small, rectangular, brown or gray (ceramic type is most common). Test with a Known Good Battery: If software and external checks haven't yielded a solution, and especially if you suspect battery health (e.g., random shutdowns at 20-30% battery), installing a new, known good battery is often the next diagnostic step and a common repair solution. Coaxial Connectors: Small, circular connectors used for antenna cables. Work slowly and gently, applying minimal pressure to avoid damaging the flex cable or underlying traces. Ghost touch/touch issues: Though less common for COF itself, if the IC's connection to the touch digitizer lines on the flex is compromised, it could lead to erratic touch input. Capacitors are fundamental components in nearly all electronic circuits, and smartphone logic boards are densely packed with thousands of them. Diagnosing this requires microsoldering skills and schematics to check power lines and signals. OL (Open Line): Indicates a break in the circuit to ground (e.g., a blown fuse or a disconnected line). Intermittent functionality, where the camera works sometimes but not others, or only after a restart, is another sign. Solder Paste (Optional, for installation): Low-temp solder paste can be used for reinstallation, or fresh solder wire. If the proximity sensor works correctly in Safe Mode, a third-party application might be interfering with sensor readings or system processes. The CPU begins executing the boot ROM, which then loads the primary bootloader from the NAND storage. Audio Noise: A persistent hum, hiss, or static in speakers or headphones, especially during calls or when transmitting data. ESD (Electrostatic Discharge): Always work on an ESD-safe mat with a grounded wrist strap. Locate the Mute Switch Assembly: The mute switch is typically part of a larger flex cable that runs along the side of the phone and often integrates with the volume buttons and sometimes the power button. Replacing individual small passive components (resistors, capacitors) if they're not densely packed. When in doubt, it is often safer to consult with experienced community members or a professional repair service. Repair/Replacement: If the daughterboard itself is suspected to be faulty, replacing the entire daughterboard assembly is usually straightforward, involving disconnecting the old one and plugging in a new replacement. Close Back Cover/Display: Align the back cover or display assembly and gently press it back into place, ensuring the adhesive seals properly. If they are clip-in type guides, gently unclip them using fine tweezers or a plastic spudger. When released, it should show an open circuit (no beep/infinite resistance). Data Encryption: Modern smartphones (especially iOS and newer Android devices) employ strong hardware-level encryption. Measure resistance between this capacitor's positive terminal and ground. Disassembly: Carefully open your smartphone to gain access to the internal components.

@Djamel, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)