[SOLVED] I'm looking for Highscreen Power Ice Max repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my Highscreen Power Ice Max. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Maurice

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the Highscreen Power Ice Max and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/697797/Mac+mini+not+turning+on+after+upgrading+the+RAM
Take a look at comment #1617
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/356447/The+return+button+is+not+responding..
You can also check this video starting from minute 6:

The Highscreen Power Ice Max service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a Highscreen Power Ice Max with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My Highscreen Power Ice Max was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your Highscreen Power Ice Max starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/q-usb-device-not-recognized.2297124/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Full Reassembly: If the tests are successful, power off the phone, disconnect the battery again, and fully reassemble the phone, securing the screen/back panel. Once it boots up, check the notification bar or settings for network signal. Reference Ground Point: Identify a known good ground point on the motherboard. Diagnosing smartphone battery percentage inaccuracies requires a systematic approach, beginning with user-level recalibration and physical inspection, then moving to software and charging system checks. ESD Damage: RF components are extremely sensitive to electrostatic discharge. Standard Phillips or Torx screwdrivers, for instance, might appear to fit a screw head, but they rarely fit perfectly. Back panel removal: Once heated, attach a suction cup near the bottom edge of the back panel. Cleaning: For minor debris or corrosion, carefully clean the flex cable and connectors with IPA and a soft brush/lint-free swab. Factory Reset (Last Resort): If all software troubleshooting fails, a factory reset (which erases all data, refer to Topic 7) can rule out deep-seated software corruption. Disadvantages: Can be more expensive if the entire module is costly (e.g., a screen assembly). Tears, Kinks, or Sharp Bends: Physical damage that can break internal traces. No Submersion Testing: NEVER submerge a repaired device to test its water resistance. Use a plastic spudger or fine-tip tweezers to gently pry straight up on the metal collar of the connector. Installation of New Connector: Apply a small amount of fresh flux to the cleaned motherboard pads. If photos are still blurry or distorted after replacing the bump, the internal camera module might need replacement. Ports: Carefully use a wooden toothpick or a plastic spudger (NEVER metal) to gently scrape out compacted lint from the charging port and headphone jack. Try Different Charger and Cable: The most common culprit is often the simplest. Apply fresh flux, then use desoldering braid and your fine-tipped soldering iron to carefully clean the pads. These error codes, often accompanied by messages like "The iPhone could not be updated/restored," are typically numeric and point to a wide range of underlying issues, from simple connectivity problems to complex hardware malfunctions. Safe Mode loads only essential system apps, disabling third-party applications. To systematically analyze smartphone USB accessories incompatibilities, follow these steps: If the static changes, it could indicate a loose internal component or flex cable. RAM Issues: Insufficient or faulty RAM can also contribute to performance bottlenecks, though this is less common as a sole cause for video choppiness. Stereo Microscope: Essential for working with tiny components and inspecting solder joints. Power Button: Very common to find volume and power buttons on the same flex. Anti-Static Precautions: An ESD mat and wrist strap are crucial to prevent damage to sensitive electronic components. There are often multiple cables, so identify which ones need replacing. Bypassing Security: While tools exist to bypass FRP or iCloud locks, doing so on a device not legally owned by the customer is illegal and unethical. However, their innovative design, particularly the intricate hinge mechanisms and flexible displays, introduces a new level of complexity and fragility to the repair process. If the new battery also drains rapidly, the issue is with the phone itself.

@Leandro, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)