[SOLVED] I'm looking for Hmd 150 Music repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my Hmd 150 Music. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Vanessa

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the Hmd 150 Music and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/q-can-you-flash-stock-bootloader-on-custom-rom.1586961/
Take a look at comment #18
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/117072/%22Temperature%22+screen+even+when+the+phone+isn't+hot.
You can also check this video starting from minute 8:

The Hmd 150 Music service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a Hmd 150 Music with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My Hmd 150 Music was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your Hmd 150 Music starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/q-bluetooth-disconnects-on-4-3.2604456/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Software Glitches: The phone incorrectly detects headphones or gets stuck in "headphone mode." Symptoms of a failing vibrator motor are quite obvious: the most common is a complete absence of vibration, even when the setting is enabled and triggered (e.g., incoming call, keyboard feedback). Power Off Phone: Always ensure your phone is completely powered off before starting any repair. Pay close attention to subtle shifts that might be missed on a single screen. A factory reset on an encrypted device will typically wipe the encryption key along with the data, making recovery of erased data extremely difficult. Carefully remove all screws and shields, keeping track of where each screw came from. If it's present, your phone might think headphones are plugged in, redirecting all audio. Benefits: Provides crucial mechanical reinforcement to BGA solder joints, enhancing their resistance to stress from drops, thermal cycling, and vibrations. Look for periods where the phone should be idle but is still consuming significant power. These are typically pre-cut, double-sided adhesive sheets or strips that precisely match the contours of your phone's frame. Water Damage: Corrosion on the display flex cable, its connector, or the motherboard can disrupt the intricate signals from the pressure sensors. Leaving any moisture can lead to new corrosion or short circuits upon powering on. On the computer, outdated, corrupted, or missing USB drivers are common. Flex Cable Issue: The LED might be part of a larger flex cable assembly (e.g., with the front camera or proximity sensor). If your phone was water-resistant, apply new, model-specific adhesive strips to the frame before re-attaching the display or back cover. Try resetting network settings (Settings > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings on iOS; similar on Android). While challenging, successfully repairing a damaged multi-pin connector can save an otherwise defunct smartphone, highlighting the power of component-level repair.An unresponsive software navigation bar on a smartphone, where the on-screen back, home, and recent apps buttons fail to react to touch, is a common and often frustrating issue. Multimeter/Oscilloscope: By performing continuity checks between known test points that should be connected, or checking the resistance of specific traces, a technician can identify broken pathways that are consistent with layer separation. Play some music, a video, or make a speakerphone call to test the new loudspeaker. You may also need to remove other components, such as the loudspeaker module, various brackets, or even the mainboard itself, to gain clear access to the entire length of the coaxial cable and its connection points. A smartphone that won't charge, charges intermittently, or charges excessively slowly is one of the most frustrating problems a user can face. Cost Savings: Prevents over-ordering, reduces waste from obsolete parts, minimizes expedited shipping costs for urgent parts. Apply Flux to Board: Apply a thin, even layer of fresh liquid or gel flux to the clean pads on the logic board where the new SIM reader will sit. In conclusion, replacing a smartphone's OIS unit, which typically means replacing the entire camera module, is a delicate yet often necessary repair for restoring photographic capabilities. This repair is undeniably challenging, demanding extreme attention to detail and a methodical approach. Action: On the client device, go to Wi-Fi settings, "forget" or delete the saved hotspot network, then rescan and try to connect again, re-entering the password. This will help hold the fragments together, preventing them from scattering and making removal safer. Apply fresh adhesive strips if the old ones were compromised or if the screen/back cover feels loose. Cleaning: If corrosion or debris is found, thoroughly clean the Hall sensor IC, its pads, and any associated flex cable or connector with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and a soft brush. Software Glitches or Bugs: An operating system bug, a rogue app, or firmware issues can incorrectly manage the charging process or cause abnormal power draw, slowing down charging.

@Gilberto, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)