[SOLVED] I'm looking for IGET Smart 9 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my IGET Smart 9. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Tiziana

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the IGET Smart 9 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/rom-unofficial-mokee-nightly-18-07-13-built-from-source.2367624/
Take a look at comment #1347
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/coming-quik-here-atom-life-radio-fix-solution.305632/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 7:

The IGET Smart 9 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a IGET Smart 9 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My IGET Smart 9 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your IGET Smart 9 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/846854/Phone+doesn't+charge+on+USB-C

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

For example, if you know your carrier uses Band 4 (fast) and Band 12 (coverage), and your phone is always stuck on Band 12 even in an urban area, it could indicate an issue with Band 4 support or antenna. Clean the chip's underside, use the correct BGA stencil, apply solder paste, and reflow to create uniform solder balls. Professional High-Magnification Microscope: Essential for every step of the process. Tap on "Storage & cache" and then "Clear cache" and "Clear storage" (or "Clear data"). Prepare the New Shield/Pads: If the new shield is from a donor board, ensure its solder pads are clean. Before starting the repair, ensure you have the correct replacement headphone jack assembly for your specific smartphone model. Under the microscope, carefully align the reballed DSP onto its designated pads on the PCB. Inspect the wireless charging coil and NFC antenna (if present) for damage. If you see nothing, the problem might be a fully failed display or even the phone itself not booting. However, some designs might use a dedicated memory controller IC, or a separate chip responsible for managing only the RAM (like a DRAM controller) while the SoC handles NAND. Component Retention: Small plastic brackets or inserts often serve to hold tiny components (like cameras, sensors, or antenna modules) firmly in place, preventing them from shifting or becoming dislodged during drops. Connect the new flex cable to the logic board's FPC connector, ensuring it clicks securely into place. Screen Protector Kit (Optional but recommended): A fresh screen protector adds value. In the intricate domain of smartphone repair, the choice of solder is far more significant than a mere preference. Do this slowly to avoid pulling up the coating or disturbing components. Replacing Integrated Circuits (ICs) using Drag Soldering: Chisel (0.8-1.5mm), bevel, or J-tip, depending on the IC's pitch and technician preference. Excessive Heat: Applying too much heat with a hot air station during component removal can cause the solder to become too liquid, making pads prone to lifting when components are removed. Access SIM Manager Settings: Navigate to your phone's Settings app, typically under "Network & internet" or "Connections," then look for "SIM cards," "Dual SIM settings," or "SIM manager." Diagnosis: Follow schematics to check power lines to and from these ICs. RF Transceiver: This chip converts digital baseband signals into analog radio frequencies for transmission and vice versa for reception. Complexity: This is the most complex step, especially on newer iPhones. Calibration might be required after replacement, which might need specialized OEM tools. Upon accessing the TrueDepth camera system, you can visually inspect its components. Not all cables are created equal; some are only good for data, not high-speed charging. If a cable is particularly stiff or needs a slight adjustment to its existing factory curve, a very gentle application of low heat can make it more pliable. Remove Battery (if possible): For phones with user-removable batteries, remove the battery immediately. If it’s stuck, apply very gentle, diffused heat to the back of the phone. There are definite scenarios where professional repair is the wiser choice: This involves placing the chip into a matching BGA stencil, applying solder paste, and then heating it with a hot air gun to melt the paste into perfect solder balls on the chip's underside. When you press the physical volume button, the multimeter should beep (indicating continuity).

@Luana, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)