[SOLVED] I'm looking for IPLUS E108 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my IPLUS E108. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Troy

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the IPLUS E108 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/D-Link+HD+Wi-Fi+Camera+Camera+Lens+Replacement/98607
Take a look at comment #608
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/430467/About+1+inch+of+the+right+side+of+the+display+works+intermittently..
You can also check this video starting from minute 6:

The IPLUS E108 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a IPLUS E108 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My IPLUS E108 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your IPLUS E108 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/q-facebook-app-and-mobile-site-not-showing-timeline.1744552/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

You'll need to remove screws and possibly metal shields to access the internal components. Replacing the internal plastic vibration motor mount is a moderate-difficulty repair due to the extent of disassembly required. Reference Designators: Every component on the board has a unique designator (e.g., C301, R102, U500). Phone Not Powering On: Ensure the battery is correctly inserted and charged. If, however, the headphone jack is directly soldered onto the logic board (more common in older or very compact designs), replacing it requires advanced micro-soldering skills and specialized equipment, making it a repair best left to a professional. The adhesive forms seals that prevent liquids and particulate matter from entering the device. Screen Lifts Again: Old adhesive wasn't fully removed, or new adhesive wasn't properly applied/cured. It involves removing all traces of old adhesive, debris, and inspecting for any physical deformities. Data on your phone will likely be lost during most recovery procedures, so if you haven't backed up, this is an unfortunate consequence. Damage to this chip or its surrounding components can cause the "invalid battery" error. Test Wireless Charging: Place the phone on a known-good wireless charging pad. Carefully clean the microphone ports (usually small holes on the top and bottom of the phone) with a soft brush or compressed air. Carefully insert the molybdenum cutting wire into the tiny gap between the outer glass and the underlying digitizer/LCD assembly. Soldering New IC: Apply new solder paste or reballed solder balls to the new RF transceiver IC. When a camera develops color balance issues, it can severely degrade the quality and utility of photos and videos, rendering colors inaccurately and creating an unpleasant visual experience. This often involves removing the screen, back cover, and sometimes other components. Clean any remaining adhesive residue from the phone's frame using isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush. Always purchase a high-quality replacement screen compatible with your exact phone model and, if applicable, regional variant. Alternatively, the battery connector on the logic board could be internally damaged, requiring micro-soldering to replace the connector , a task best left to professional technicians with specialized equipment. Leveling tools or bubble level apps will consistently display incorrect angles or show the phone as perpetually off-level, even on a flat surface. ESD Protection: If you need to open the phone, wear an anti-static wrist strap. This requires advanced micro-soldering and diagnostic skills, which are typically beyond the scope of DIY repair. In such cases, replacing the entire flex cable or the battery might resolve the issue. Understanding the chain of components involved in charging helps in diagnosis: If there were any brackets or shields, re-install them and secure with their original screws. Lifting Pads (Soldered Modules): Too much force during desoldering or inadequate heat can rip pads off the board, making repair much harder. New Adhesive Strips/B-7000 Glue: For re-sealing the screen or back cover, especially if the original adhesive is compromised. Also, check the refresh rate settings; some phones allow you to switch between 60Hz, 90Hz, or 120Hz. Remove any case, especially bulky or insulating ones, to allow for better airflow. When a phone is in Fastboot, it typically displays a text-based interface on the screen, often showing "FASTBOOT mode," "Download mode," or similar messages, along with information about the bootloader, device state, and security settings.

@Aditya, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)