[SOLVED] I'm looking for IPLUS i113 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my IPLUS i113. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Evelyn

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the IPLUS i113 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/should-i-give-up-my-dream-of-rooting-and-just-update-to-5-1-1.3290353/
Take a look at comment #518
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/640869/Is+cell+signal+quality+and+the+placement+of+the+Network+Antenna.
You can also check this video starting from minute 1:

The IPLUS i113 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a IPLUS i113 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My IPLUS i113 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your IPLUS i113 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/443181/Why+can't+I+get+pass+verifying+google+account

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

This is a more advanced step and will erase all user data if you perform a clean flash. By following these detailed steps and exercising extreme caution, replacing the earpiece speaker and proximity sensor combo flex can be a successful repair, restoring essential smartphone functionalities.5. Visually inspect the charging port for any debris, lint, dust, or bent pins. Low Resistance (<50 ohms, especially <20 ohms): Indicates a short to ground on that power rail. A misaligned front camera can lead to a host of issues, ranging from degraded photo quality to complete malfunction of associated sensors. If performing a DIY repair, meticulous attention to detail is paramount. Using a very sharp scalpel or fiberglass pen, gently scrape away the protective solder mask (the green, black, or blue coating) from the copper trace on both sides of the break. A damaged motherboard pad on a smartphone is a significant and often challenging repair, typically encountered in scenarios involving physical impact, liquid damage, or botched previous repairs. Ensure these cables are securely snapped into their connectors (they are very small and can easily come loose). Under pressure (e.g., submersion or a splash with force), water will exploit these weaknesses. Account for slight variations due to microclimates or sensor differences. Visual Inspection: Thoroughly inspect the sensor area for dust, debris, or misalignment. There should be no continuity (no beep/OL reading) between adjacent power/data pins. Secure: Re-install any screws, covers, or adhesive that secured the antenna. If you are not confident in your micro-soldering skills, it is best to send the device to a professional repair service specializing in mainboard-level diagnostics and repairs to avoid further, irreparable damage to your smartphone. Dust or debris under the screen or on camera lenses can ruin the aesthetic and functionality of the repair. If any tests fail, power off, disconnect the battery, and re-check all connections and sensor alignment. Device Not Recognized: Try a different USB port, a different USB cable, or a different computer. Digitizer Controller IC Failure: The integrated circuit (IC) on the logic board or the display assembly that interprets touch input can fail, leading to partial or complete unresponsiveness. You might notice your phone no longer holding a charge as long as it used to, unexpected shutdowns even with a seemingly adequate charge, excessive heating during use or charging, or even the battery physically swelling. Manufacturers often release updates that include power management optimizations. Replacing a smartphone front-facing camera is a precise repair that requires patience and careful handling of delicate components. Always prioritize data backup before attempting any factory reset or firmware flashing to avoid irreversible data loss.5. Curing (Optional): Use clamps or heavy books to apply gentle, even pressure around the edges for several hours to allow the adhesive to fully cure. Increase Brightness: The simplest solution is often the most effective. ESD Safety: Always work on an ESD-safe mat with a grounded wrist strap. Flex Cables: Even a seemingly simple flex cable (e.g., charging port flex) can have integrated components or specific routing that requires compatible firmware or can cause issues if not exact. Software Glitches or Corruptions: While less common for load-specific shutdowns, deep-seated software issues can sometimes manifest this way. When the tray is fully inserted, the spring mechanism typically helps seat the tray firmly and also provides the necessary tension for smooth ejection. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Wear chemical-resistant gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator (with organic vapor cartridges).

@Jackson, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)