Forum Phones & Tablets Repair
Discussion Starter - #1 - 1 week ago

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my JIVI Xtreme View Pro. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.


forum selected answer
Selected Answer


I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.



>>>> JIVI Xtreme View Pro maintenance guide & schematics (pdf + fz)

Good luck

Discussion Starter - #3 - 1 week ago

@Tariq

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the JIVI Xtreme View Pro and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/contacts.892014/
Take a look at comment #1407
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/making-the-default-input-method-actually-work-614c.403354/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 4:


The JIVI Xtreme View Pro service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a JIVI Xtreme View Pro with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.



emoji scratching head

My JIVI Xtreme View Pro was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your JIVI Xtreme View Pro starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

  • Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
  • Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
  • Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
  • Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
  • Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/725577/My+laptop+brightness+not+changing+by+function+key

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Check for Loose Components: Sometimes a loose earpiece speaker or internal components can cause sound to leak, creating an echo. Fuzzy or crystalline growth: Suggests salts or minerals from dried liquid. If your area is congested with many Wi-Fi networks on the same channel, changing it can improve stability. For Thermal Pad: Cut the new thermal pad to the exact size and shape of the SoC, ensuring it covers the entire surface without overlapping sensitive components. Listen for the buzzing sound, especially when the device is under peak load or when the frames per second fluctuate. Unfortunately, daily use often subjects this frame to nicks, dings, and scratches, marring its pristine appearance. Cleaning: Gently use a non-conductive tool like a wooden toothpick, plastic floss pick, or a dry, soft-bristled toothbrush to carefully dislodge any debris. Sensors (Proximity, Ambient Light, Gyro, Accelerometer, Magnetometer): Cable Ends: Inspect the connectors on your USB cables for damage, bent pins, or signs of stress. For a standard USB-A to USB-C/Lightning cable, identify the main pins: VBUS (power), GND (ground), D+ (data positive), D- (data negative). These are typically small spring-loaded pins (pogo pins) on the logic board or chassis, or flat metal pads on a flex cable, that connect to corresponding pads on another component (e.g., an antenna flex cable, the mid-frame, or the back cover that has an integrated antenna). Screen Removal/Partial Removal: Depending on your phone model, you might need to fully remove the screen assembly by disconnecting its display and digitizer flex cables from the motherboard. This prevents accidental touches with your face or ear, such as muting the call, hanging up, or opening apps. Gently press it into place, working your way around the edges to ensure a tight seal. If your phone is completely "bricked" and doesn't respond to any button combinations or show any signs of life. Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) (>90%) and cotton swabs (for cleaning, if needed) Connector Cleaning/Repair: If corrosion or bent pins are the issue, careful cleaning with 99% isopropyl alcohol or gentle straightening of pins (with extreme caution) might resolve it. By meticulously following these instructions, exercising extreme caution, and utilizing the correct tools, you can successfully perform this repair, restoring your smartphone's clear display and full touch functionality, giving it a new lease on life.10. This prevents accidental short circuits during the rest of the repair. During disassembly or reassembly, the delicate flex cable that houses the microphone(s) or connects to them might have been: Align New Component: Carefully align the new backlight driver IC (pay attention to the orientation dot/mark) or other components (coil, diode). If the restarts occur only when a specific app is open, try uninstalling it. Test the temperature with your finger; it should be hot to the touch but not unbearable. Heat Gun or Hair Dryer: If you need to remove the screen or back cover first. The risks are high, but for experienced technicians, it can be a cost-effective and rewarding repair, saving a valuable device from the junkyard. To systematically identify and confirm coil-induced buzzing, follow these steps: Excessive flexing, twisting, or pressure applied to the new screen during the installation process can subtly damage the internal backlight layers. Always work away from delicate components and avoid applying excessive force that could scratch or deform the frame. Look for keywords like "panic," "crash," "thermal," "voltage," "error." Thermal Paste/Pad Re-application: If a previous repair disturbed the thermal management, ensure new thermal paste or pads are applied correctly to hot components like the SoC.

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

Page top