[SOLVED] I'm looking for LOVME A25 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my LOVME A25. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Prasad

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the LOVME A25 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Lenovo+ThinkPad+X1+Extreme+Docking+Station+Replacement/131356
Take a look at comment #1662
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/307125/iPhone+6+won't+read+sim+card.
You can also check this video starting from minute 7:

The LOVME A25 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a LOVME A25 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My LOVME A25 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your LOVME A25 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/385483/Earpiece+suddenly+very+low+volume

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

These can easily become loose or damaged, leading to intermittent or poor signal reception. Degraded Battery: If the battery can't hold a charge or deliver sufficient current during boot. The internal storage chip (typically eMMC or UFS) is one of the most vital components of a smartphone, housing the operating system, all installed applications, user data, and crucial firmware. Symptoms of a faulty NFC antenna module include the inability to activate NFC in the phone’s settings (the toggle might be grayed out or disappear), error messages when attempting contactless payments, failure to pair with NFC-enabled devices, or an inability to read NFC tags. If the CPU temperature reaches critical levels, the system will automatically restart or shut down to prevent permanent hardware damage. This knowledge guides the decision to replace the entire display assembly, as component-level repair of the DDI on the flex cable is not practically feasible for most repair shops. The PMIC itself might be part of the short, or a capacitor/IC connected to the main rail. Liquid Damage: Look for corrosion, residue, or discoloration on or around the module IC (e.g., Wi-Fi IC, Baseband IC, Display Driver IC). Old Thermal Paste: If the old thermal paste on the processor (often underneath a metal shield or heat spreader) appears dry, cracked, or insufficient, it's highly recommended to clean it off and reapply new thermal paste. Cannot make or receive calls/SMS: The primary function is entirely disabled. The symptoms are quite distinct: you won't hear ringtones, music, or videos through the main loudspeaker. Use tightly rolled cotton swabs dipped in IPA to get into the tight crevices, corners, and edges of the hinge mechanism. This eliminates the need for heat guns, adhesive removers, and the risk of damaging components during prying. A new, functional baseband IC (often salvaged from a donor board of the exact same model) needs to be "reballed" if it doesn't come pre-balled. Reseating Connectors: If the connectors are merely loose, carefully snap them back into place, ensuring they are fully seated. Rigid Boxes for Displays: Display assemblies, particularly flexible OLEDs, should be stored flat in rigid boxes to prevent bending, twisting, or pressure on the screen itself. You may wish to use small clamps or rubber bands (applied gently around the phone) to hold the window securely while the adhesive cures. Aging and Stress: Over the device's lifespan, physical stress and material fatigue can permanently alter the sensor's characteristics. If external checks and software troubleshooting don't fix the issue, the problem likely lies with the physical button mechanism or its internal flex cable. Carefully reinstall any springs, gaskets, or brackets from the inside. Proper alignment ensures efficient energy transfer, prolongs battery life, and provides a seamless wireless charging experience.### 7. USB-C to USB-C: The modern standard, often used for Power Delivery (PD) fast charging with laptops, tablets, and high-end smartphones. Water can cause corrosion and short circuits, leading to ghost charging and other electrical faults. Even without outright corrosion, a dull or tarnished appearance of the metal contacts can be a sign. Gently pull up on the suction cup while inserting a thin opening pick into the seam. Lay it flat on a perfectly level surface to check for any rocking or visible gaps. Gently Lift: Once all screws are removed, the display module can usually be gently lifted away from the main frame. Hold it perfectly still, applying light pressure, and allow the glue to cure completely (this can take several minutes to hours depending on the glue). If the issue persists after thorough software and preliminary hardware checks, it’s likely an internal hardware defect that requires professional repair. Use tweezers and a plastic spudger to gently separate them from the adhesive, taking care not to damage the flex cable.

@Pauline, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)