[SOLVED] I'm looking for Lava A67 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my Lava A67. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Zach

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the Lava A67 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/help-urgent-stuck-at-fastboot-twrp.2693400/
Take a look at comment #306
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/q-question-tilt-to-wake-fading-animation-when-it-turns-on.3566997/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 9:

The Lava A67 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a Lava A67 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My Lava A67 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your Lava A67 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/help-needed.312649/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Power Rail Checks: The baseband processor and RF components require specific voltage rails to operate. Reinstall external screws: Fasten any pentalobe or Phillips screws near the charging port. Apply new adhesive strips (if you chose to use them) around the perimeter of the frame or back cover. The physical button will still click and function as a home button, but fingerprint recognition will not work. Heat gun or heating pad: To soften the adhesive that secures the screen or back panel, and often the battery itself. Look for `RSRP` (Reference Signal Received Power) and `RSRQ` (Reference Signal Received Quality) values. Start with simple external and software checks, and only proceed to internal hardware repair if necessary. When a baseband IC fails, the phone will exhibit "No Service," "Searching," or "Invalid SIM" errors, even with a working SIM card, and will be unable to connect to any cellular network. Cycle Counting: Regularly (daily, weekly) count a small percentage of your inventory to verify accuracy against the system. If software troubleshooting yields no results, the problem likely lies within the physical components of the phone. Tighten/Replace Screws/Brackets: Ensure all screws are present and tightened. The phone cannot be turned on, off, or put to sleep/woken up using the button. Short Circuits: A short on the motherboard (e.g., a shorted capacitor, a damaged power management IC (PMIC), or a faulty Wi-Fi/Bluetooth chip constantly drawing power) can cause significant, rapid battery drain even when the phone is idle or off. This is a much more complex repair, involving micro-soldering and BGA (Ball Grid Array) rework. VoLTE/Wi-Fi Calling Issues: If using Voice over LTE (VoLTE) or Wi-Fi Calling, temporary network glitches or router issues can cause distortion. Magnetometer (Compass): Detects magnetic fields for compass functionality and location services. Phone won't turn on: The most severe symptom, as no power reaches the logic board. Processing Load Test: Open a graphically demanding game or a benchmark application (like AnTuTu, Geekbench, or 3DMark). iOS: Settings > General > Transfer or Reset iPhone > Reset > Reset Network Settings. Replacing it involves disassembling your phone, which is an intermediate-level repair. Pulsing Current: Often indicates a boot loop or a component trying to draw power but failing. Plastic spudger/pry tools: For safely opening the phone and disconnecting flex cables. LEDs within the Display Panel: The actual light-emitting diodes embedded within the LCD assembly that produce the illumination. Characteristics: Designed to leave minimal, non-corrosive, non-conductive residue after soldering that does not require cleaning. Specialized Diagnostic Tools: Advanced repair centers may have proprietary diagnostic tools that can communicate directly with the PMIC to read error codes or test its functionality. Software Calibration Options: Many Android smartphones offer various display calibration settings within their "Display" settings. Conductive Copper Tape: Excellent conductivity and shielding effectiveness, often used for grounding and sealing EMI paths. They consist of etched copper traces that form the radiating elements, and they are typically connected to the main logic board via a small coaxial cable or directly through spring contacts. Manufacturers typically lock it to prevent unauthorized modifications. This is crucial for verifying diode health and identifying shorted diodes.

@Andy, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)