Forum Phones & Tablets Repair
Discussion Starter - #1 - 1 week ago

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my MEMUP SlidePad NG 116. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.


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I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.



>>>> MEMUP SlidePad NG 116 maintenance guide & schematics (pdf + fz)

Good luck

Discussion Starter - #3 - 1 week ago

@Andi

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the MEMUP SlidePad NG 116 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/i-was-one-click-away-from-the-one-x-but.1585553/
Take a look at comment #576
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/1519/disassembly+guide+for+iMac+Intel+21.5%22.
You can also check this video starting from minute 1:


The MEMUP SlidePad NG 116 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a MEMUP SlidePad NG 116 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.



emoji scratching head

My MEMUP SlidePad NG 116 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your MEMUP SlidePad NG 116 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

  • Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
  • Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
  • Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
  • Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
  • Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/commandr-and-autowear-apps-not-working.3284537/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

A visibly "worn" area on the screen, often where the thumb frequently interacts. Reapply heat as needed, especially if the pick becomes difficult to move. When executed with precision, the right equipment, and in a sterile environment, it offers a cost-effective, environmentally friendly, and high-quality alternative to full display replacement, allowing technicians to breathe new life into seemingly unrepairable shattered screens while preserving the original display quality. This typically involves removing external screws, applying gentle heat to soften adhesive, and carefully prying open the housing with plastic tools. You will need an anti-static mat and wrist strap to prevent ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) damage, a precision screwdriver set (often including Pentalobe, Torx, and Phillips bits), plastic spudgers and opening picks, fine-tipped tweezers, isopropyl alcohol (99% or higher purity) for cleaning, and lint-free wipes. Aluminum polishing compound (e.g., Flitz, Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish) If the frame is bent or cracked, it can deform or damage the integrated antenna, impairing its performance. The inspection process requires a combination of appropriate tools, a systematic approach, and keen observation. Back Cover Removal: Most modern phones require careful removal of the back cover. These fans are crucial for dissipating the immense heat generated by powerful processors and GPUs during extended gaming sessions, preventing thermal throttling and maintaining peak performance. Clean Residue: If there's old adhesive, gently scrape it off with a plastic tool and clean with IPA to ensure a clean surface for the new cable. Recent Repairs/Drops: Grounding issues often arise after a phone has been dropped (dislodging components or creating hairline cracks in ground traces) or after a repair where screws were missed, overtightened, or components were not seated correctly. The modem chip on the motherboard is responsible for processing cellular signals. Personal Reference: It's easy to forget specific screw types or cable routings for a particular model, especially if you don't repair it frequently. It demands a high degree of technical skill, specialized tools, and an unwavering commitment to precision. Understanding the various types of locks, their root causes, and systematic troubleshooting approaches is paramount for any professional smartphone technician. Be careful not to damage the earpiece speaker, front camera, or any other components that might be integrated with or adjacent to the flex. This is often the most robust solution for severe software corruption. If misaligned or obstructed, it may fail to turn off the screen during calls, leading to accidental touches, mute activations, or pocket dialing. Install the app, sign in with your Google account, and ensure "Backup & sync" is turned on. It connects your body to the same ground point as your ESD mat, continuously draining any static charge you accumulate. Rapid battery drain: If the phone still turns on but the battery dies extremely quickly, a partial short or a high-resistance short might be drawing constant power. If you can reach these modes, it's a good sign for software recovery, as it indicates the bootloader is still functional. The ceramic or ferrite core of coils can crack, or the internal windings can break. Thoroughly clean the exposed camera lens(es) using a blower bulb and then a lint-free wipe with a tiny amount of IPA. Even a small amount can prevent the cable from seating fully, making it appear misaligned. Clean Old Adhesive Residue: This is arguably the most important step for a successful re-installation. Pay close attention to any small components attached to the flex, such as microphones, LED indicators, or proximity sensors, as these will often need to be carefully transferred to the new flex cable if your replacement part doesn't include them. Signs of Damage: If the lens assembly is rigidly stuck, moves very loosely without resistance, or grinds/catches, it indicates internal damage to the OIS components. Use precision screwdrivers to remove the screws securing these shields.

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