[SOLVED] I'm looking for NAOMICASE Siro repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my NAOMICASE Siro. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Stéphanie

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the NAOMICASE Siro and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Fixing+a+Leak+in+a+Specialized+Blast+Tubeless+Tire+Setter/190173
Take a look at comment #1112
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/650555/How+do+I+fix+the+battery+latch+door+will+not+stay+close+or+to+lock.
You can also check this video starting from minute 8:

The NAOMICASE Siro service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a NAOMICASE Siro with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My NAOMICASE Siro was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your NAOMICASE Siro starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/448826/Volume+is+very+low

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

This degradation can manifest in various ways, impacting the visual quality and overall user experience. A new replacement earpiece speaker module (or flex cable assembly): Ensure it's compatible with your exact phone model. Only consider a faulty Wi-Fi IC on the motherboard as a last resort, as this typically requires professional micro-soldering expertise. If one mic works but another doesn't, it points to a specific microphone's failure. This guide assumes a common "display-first" opening, but always refer to a specific guide for your phone model if available. ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) / Flip-lock connectors: These have a small hinged flap that must be gently flipped open (usually 90 degrees) before the ribbon cable can be slid straight out. Simply open your phone's web browser and search for "online dead pixel test." These websites usually provide buttons to switch between full-screen solid colors. A power button issue can manifest in several ways and have various underlying causes: Once located, inspect the sensor and its surrounding flex cable for any visible signs of damage: tears, corrosion, bent pins, or disconnected components. Note the location of the delicate charging pins (usually on one side or in the center). This process completely erases the device and reinstalls the operating system. Overheating: The phone becomes uncomfortably hot to hold, sometimes even hot enough to cause discomfort or a slight burn sensation. While not direct "health" monitors like SMART for SSDs, they can show performance degradation. The compass app points in the wrong direction, constantly drifts, or doesn't update when the phone is rotated. This might involve unscrewing brackets, disconnecting other flex cables (e.g., camera, display), or lifting a sub-board. Restrict their background activity or uninstall them if they're not essential. The multimeter should beep, indicating good continuity to ground (resistance close to 0 ohms). Examples include consistently low charging current despite no software limits, persistent Wi-Fi/Bluetooth failures despite clean logs, or system instability without software errors. Scratches/Abrasions: Careless repair attempts or foreign objects can scrape through the solder mask and copper trace. While they require access to schematics and boardview, along with careful probing techniques, they provide an efficient and less invasive means to diagnose complex PCB faults. Confirm on Phone Screen: After executing the unlock command, your phone's screen will usually display a warning message about unlocking the bootloader and the resulting data wipe. If not, power off, disconnect the battery, and re-check all connections and the flex cable seating. Flex Cable Damage: The flexible ribbon cable connecting the digitizer to the main logic board is delicate. Visual Inspection (Microscope): Meticulously inspect the repair under magnification. For instance, white backgrounds might take on a pinkish, greenish, yellowish, or bluish hue. Incorrect Pressure Levels: Apps that rely on variable pressure (e.g., drawing apps for line thickness) do not respond correctly, producing uniform lines regardless of force. Inspecting these clips is essential for diagnosing issues related to signal interference, erratic behavior, or physical rattling within the device. Reconnect Flex Cable(s): Carefully reconnect all flex cables from the new wireless charging module to their respective sockets on the motherboard. Organize Screws: Keep track of screw sizes and locations; they are often not interchangeable. These critical components (especially the Dot Projector and Flood Illuminator, often integrated into a single module or very closely linked) are also cryptographically paired to the Secure Enclave.

@Giulio, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)