[SOLVED] I'm looking for NO.1 S6 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my NO.1 S6. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Anastasia

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the NO.1 S6 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/q-help-problem-with-wifi-conects-but-no-internet.1744938/
Take a look at comment #1716
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/q-link-for-froyo-jp7.819854/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 9:

The NO.1 S6 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a NO.1 S6 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My NO.1 S6 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your NO.1 S6 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Razer+Naga+Epic+Chroma+Disassembly/78810

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Poor signal strength: Low signal bars or consistently negative dBm readings in field test modes. As devices become smaller and more powerful, components are packed more tightly, and power delivery systems become more complex. If pads are damaged, advanced micro-soldering (jumper wires, UV mask) will be required as described in Topic 1. The addition of heat to the cleaning solution can further enhance this process by increasing the efficiency of cavitation and the solvency of the cleaning fluid. In conclusion, repairing the flexible hinge mechanism on a foldable smartphone is one of the most challenging repairs in modern mobile electronics. Flex or Movement: Does the screen or back panel noticeably flex or give way under slight pressure? A healthy, properly seated component should feel rigid. By systematically working through these steps from simple to complex, you can effectively diagnose and potentially resolve the signal issues, restoring your phone's full communication capabilities. A smartphone's aluminum frame serves as its skeleton, providing structural integrity and housing the internal components. The external housing or mid-frame of a smartphone serves multiple critical functions: it provides structural integrity, protects internal components from impact and dust, acts as a heat sink, and holds everything together in a precise alignment. Factory Reset: The ultimate software troubleshooting step before concluding hardware failure. Position: Carefully position the new flex cable, ensuring it aligns perfectly with its intended path within the phone's chassis. This is often the most common repair for true hardware-related discoloration. Check for Physical Damage: Inspect the phone's housing for dents or bends, especially around the antenna lines (often plastic/glass strips on a metal frame). Reduced Bass Response: Because lower frequencies have longer wavelengths, they are particularly susceptible to phase cancellation. This guide will walk you through the process of diagnosing and fixing a smartphone that displays a "software update failed" message. Apply gentle, even pressure when prying, unscrewing, and disconnecting. Use a dust blower (or compressed air in short, careful bursts, holding the can upright) to blow away any dust particles that may have settled on the camera lens during the removal process. If the motor is held by a metal bracket or small springs that have been bent, carefully use fine-tip tweezers or pliers to gently straighten them back into their original position. Laser Autofocus (LAF): Primarily used for close-range focusing and in low light, LAF systems emit an infrared laser beam and measure the time it takes for the light to reflect off the subject and return. Is it failing to acquire a preferred band? The phone might indicate "LTE" but the RSRP is very low, suggesting it's struggling to maintain a strong connection to that band, or it fails to connect to 5G altogether in a known 5G area. Examples include social media apps, navigation apps left running, or poorly coded games. Magnification (optional but recommended): For detailed inspection and handling tiny parts. Manufacturing Defect: Some models have known baseband issues due to design or manufacturing flaws (e.g., "Loop Disease" on iPhone 7). Refer to the schematic diagram for your phone model to identify the function of each pin on the display connector. Method: Go to Settings -> Storage (or "About phone" then "Storage" depending on Android version). For situations involving severe frame warping, multiple stripped screws, or if you are uncomfortable with internal phone repairs, it's always best to seek professional help. For very stubborn oxidation, a fiberglass brush pen (used extremely gently) or a pencil eraser can be employed, but with utmost caution. Gently press on different areas of the phone's back and frame, particularly near the headphone jack. This typically involves removing the back cover (often glued), any midframe screws, and then carefully disconnecting the battery to prevent accidental power to the board during testing. Apply Gradual Pressure: Slowly turn the adjustment knobs or screws on the jig to gradually increase pressure on the bent areas.

@Lea, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)