[SOLVED] I'm looking for ONECLICK X-MUSIC II PRO repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my ONECLICK X-MUSIC II PRO. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Mert

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the ONECLICK X-MUSIC II PRO and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/675422/LG+-+new+compressor+now+tech+says+needs+new+evaporator
Take a look at comment #742
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/q-a-rom-5-1-lollipop-taoshan-resurrection-remix-5-4-0-cm12-1-based.3073252/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 1:

The ONECLICK X-MUSIC II PRO service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a ONECLICK X-MUSIC II PRO with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My ONECLICK X-MUSIC II PRO was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your ONECLICK X-MUSIC II PRO starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/fast-rom.1994938/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Strip Enamel: Carefully scrape or burn off the enamel coating from only the very tips (0.5-1mm) of the jumper wire. Continuously observe the solder balls at the edges (if visible) and gently nudge the IC with fine tweezers. Antenna Design: Ensure the new antenna is identical to the original; subtle differences can affect performance. Fraying/Damage: Inspect both ends of the cable, especially near the connectors, for fraying, cuts, or signs of stress. Now, use the plastic spudger, a plastic razor blade, or a fresh, IPA-dampened cotton swab to gently scrub and scrape the softened residue. Cracked Screen: Even small, hairline cracks might go unnoticed, but they can sever the tiny conductive traces within the digitizer layer, leading to unresponsive areas. Once the visual inspection is complete, use a digital multimeter (DMM) to perform electrical continuity and resistance tests. This prevents accidental short circuits while working on the internals. Soldering Iron (Temperature Controlled): For basic component soldering, like replacing charging ports (Micro-USB) or button switches. Clean the area around the damaged anchor with isopropyl alcohol to remove any grease or debris. Test SIMs Individually: Remove one SIM card and test the other alone in the phone. Updating or restoring an iOS smartphone, whether it’s an iPhone or iPad, is generally a straightforward process. Power Management IC (PMIC): Some network issues can stem from a faulty PMIC that supplies power to the Network IC. If the problem persists, try a different wall charger or power adapter, ensuring it provides adequate power for expected charging speeds. An abnormal current draw when the phone is powered on, especially if localized to the audio IC area, can confirm a short or a failing component. This prevents static electricity from damaging sensitive internal components. Port feels loose or doesn't fit: Ensure the replacement part is correct for your exact model. These applications push the CPU and GPU to their limits, drawing significant power and causing voltage regulators to work harder. Mechanism: Non-gel toothpaste contains very fine abrasives (like baking soda or silica) that can gently polish the microscopic edges of a scratch or the surrounding glass, making the scratch less noticeable. Flex Connectors: Use a plastic spudger to gently press down on each flex cable connector. An advanced approach involves a combination of specialized tools, systematic analysis, and a deep understanding of circuit design. Use solder wick with a fine-tipped soldering iron to carefully clean and flatten the pads on the motherboard. Protect Internal Side: Place the phone frame on a soft, protective surface. Heat Gun or Hot Air Rework Station: Crucial for softening adhesive on screen assemblies or back covers, and indispensable for desoldering soldered ports. The Different Types of Smartphone Battery Chemistries and Their Handling Aim for the manufacturer-recommended temperature, typically between 60-80°C for most screen/back glass adhesives. If Tabs Break (Heat Method): If the tabs break, you'll need to carefully pry the battery. Heat: Prolonged overheating can sometimes temporarily affect digitizer performance, though typically not in a "drift" pattern. They have specialized tools to test components like the modem and antenna, and can perform more intricate repairs if necessary. This means a more extensive replacement involving swapping the entire middle frame or chassis, which integrates the hinge.

@Rahul, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)