[SOLVED] I'm looking for Plum Might Plus II repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my Plum Might Plus II. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Gene

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the Plum Might Plus II and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/BMW+2003+2004+2005+2006+2007+2008+2009+2010+5+Series+Tail+Light+Bulb+Replacement/142092
Take a look at comment #1212
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/447676/I+dropped+the+phone+and+it+now+bootloops+and+only+lights+up+on+charger.
You can also check this video starting from minute 10:

The Plum Might Plus II service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a Plum Might Plus II with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My Plum Might Plus II was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your Plum Might Plus II starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/215409/My+LCD+screen+is+broken

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

This systematic approach ensures you don't undertake an unnecessary and potentially risky hardware repair. Set up the phone as new (without restoring from backup initially) and test the camera. Take extreme care to align them correctly and gently snap them into their connectors. Motherboard Connector Continuity: For very advanced cases, check continuity from the motherboard connector pins to their respective test points or ICs on the motherboard. Authorized Service Center: For persistent hardware issues, especially if the microphone, earpiece, or loudspeaker seem faulty after cleaning and testing with external audio devices, it's best to take your phone to an authorized service center. Poor Repair Work: Using non-OEM parts, improper reassembly (e.g., pinched cables, missing screws, displaced shields), or leaving adhesive residue on antenna contacts. Dremel/rotary tool with a tiny grinding bit (last resort): Extremely risky. Rubber Band or Latex Glove Piece: A small piece of rubber provides additional friction. Vetting Tips: Build trust, ask about their sourcing methods, and test parts diligently. Activity Level: Needs to be active enough to clean oxides effectively but not so aggressive that it damages delicate components or leaves corrosive residue. Improper Routing: Routing a cable incorrectly can cause it to be pinched during reassembly, leading to immediate or eventual damage. Using a thin, sturdy plastic opening tool, or if necessary, a very thin razor blade (with extreme caution to avoid scratching the phone's frame or internal components), carefully pry around the edges of the damaged plastic window. Hot Air Reflow: Once aligned, apply hot air over the new connector using the same temperature and airflow settings as for removal. Background Apps/Malware: Rogue applications, malware, or processes stuck in a loop can drain power excessively and cause heat. Test in Safe Mode (Android): If the issue persists, boot into Safe Mode (disables third-party apps). Compressed Air Blower (Dust Blower): For dislodging dust from camera modules, charging ports, and speaker grilles. Swelling (Bulging): This is a critical physical indicator and requires immediate attention. If your voice is clear in the recording but not during calls, the issue might be specific to the call application or network. Explosion: Though rare, rapid venting of gas can cause the casing to rupture explosively. With a systematic approach, you can likely identify and remedy the cause of your post-update battery drain, restoring your smartphone's endurance. Reconnect Cables: Carefully reconnect the antenna coaxial cable(s) to the newly repaired connector(s). Heat gun/rework station (with precise temperature and airflow control) ADB Logs (Android): For advanced users, connecting the phone to a computer and using `adb logcat` can provide detailed system logs that might indicate errors related to USB device enumeration, driver loading, or power management when a dongle is connected. Install the logic board, ensuring all connectors are accessible for later connection. When you first boot into TWRP, it might ask if you want to allow modifications to the system partition. If audio is clear on one but not the other, it points to a specific speaker malfunction. Keyboard Outline: If you use a single keyboard app extensively, its outline can burn in, especially around the space bar area. Keep Storage Free: Don't let your internal storage fill up completely. Risk: Any procedure involving OS flashing carries a risk of data loss or bricking the device if not performed correctly. This guide outlines the process of replacing a damaged OLED display assembly.

@Antonia, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)