[SOLVED] I'm looking for Posh Kick Pro LTE repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my Posh Kick Pro LTE. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Irfan

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the Posh Kick Pro LTE and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/small-apps.2538193/
Take a look at comment #1620
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/which-one-is-the-last-radio-version.438969/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 8:

The Posh Kick Pro LTE service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a Posh Kick Pro LTE with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My Posh Kick Pro LTE was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your Posh Kick Pro LTE starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/633660/Ipad+6th+wifi+not+charging+problem

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Always begin with the simplest checks: inspect cables and ports, then try different cables, chargers, and computers. Screen First: Some phones, particularly older ones or certain iPhone models, require the screen to be removed first. This common problem, often referred to as a "boot loop" or "boot brick," leaves the phone in an endless cycle of showing the logo, attempting to start, failing, and restarting again. Logic Board Component Failure: If a new motor doesn't resolve the issue, the problem might be at the logic board level. Disconnect the Battery: Once the phone is open, the very first internal step is to disconnect the battery flex cable from the logic board using a plastic spudger. If it doesn't, power off, disconnect the battery, and carefully recheck the alignment and all connections. Apply a thin, even layer of low-temperature solder paste across the stencil, ensuring each opening is filled. Check Charging IC (on logic board): If the heat persists after disconnecting the daughterboard, the charging IC (often a BGA chip) on the main logic board is likely faulty. Encryption: For modern, encrypted devices, even if the raw data is readable, it will be scrambled. Accessing the S Pen Slot Module: The S Pen slot assembly is typically located at the bottom corner of the phone, near the charging port. It transforms the repair process from simple component swapping to sophisticated fault isolation and board-level micro-soldering.Replacing the Dedicated Voice Assistant Button/Sensor on a Smartphone Damaged Antenna Flex Cable: If the antenna is part of a flexible PCB, inspect it for rips, tears, or creases, especially near hinges or tight bends. Purpose: To apply gentle, even pressure to the screen or back cover after applying new adhesive, ensuring a strong bond as the glue cures. GPS/Mapping Apps: Ensure your navigation and location-based apps are updated to their latest versions from the App Store/Play Store. While a damaged or disconnected Wi-Fi antenna (usually a flex cable or integrated into the frame) would cause poor signal or no signal, it typically doesn't cause the Wi-Fi toggle to grey out entirely. Video Mode: Record a short video to see if autofocus struggles persist during video recording. Check the entire display assembly for any cracks or physical damage that might not be visible externally, especially where flex cables attach to the panel. Attempt to Enter Special Modes: This is the most crucial diagnostic step. Dedicated DACs: A dedicated headphone DAC is a separate, specialized IC (often from manufacturers like Cirrus Logic, ESS Sabre, or Qualcomm Aqstic) specifically designed to convert digital audio into a high-fidelity analog signal. Damaging Other Flex Cables: Be extremely careful when prying and disconnecting. Before securing the jumper with UV mask, use your multimeter to perform a continuity test across the repaired trace. They are not interchangeable but rather complementary, each excelling in distinct situations. The highly miniaturized and delicate nature of camera components, coupled with the need to maintain device integrity (especially water resistance), makes it a repair best attempted by those comfortable with intricate electronics work. Encountering a broken screw during a smartphone repair is a frustrating, yet not uncommon, problem. This comprehensive guide will detail the methods, tools, and considerations involved in accurately assessing and understanding microphone mesh blockages. Inspect the SIM Card Slot (Internal Reader Pins): This step requires extreme caution as the internal pins are fragile. Load the firmware files (AP, BL, CP, CSC) into their respective slots. The primary symptom of a GPS malfunction is inaccurate location reporting. Once software is ruled out, turn your attention to the physical sensor: Disconnect all flex cables (screen, battery, charging port, cameras, etc.) to isolate the motherboard.

@Pablo, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)