[SOLVED] I'm looking for SANEE S113 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my SANEE S113. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Noor

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the SANEE S113 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/moto-g8-plus-flashing-locked.4259113/
Take a look at comment #201
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/custom-text-to-speech-reading-speed.3554824/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 4:

The SANEE S113 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a SANEE S113 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My SANEE S113 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your SANEE S113 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/366638/How+can+I+clean+the+keys

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Magnifying Lamp or Microscope: Essential for inspecting the tiny coaxial cables and their connectors. Document Everything: Take photos or videos at each step of disassembly. Slow or Unstable Mobile Data: Even with a reported signal, data speeds are sluggish, or connectivity is intermittent. If the device opens from the back (rear panel removal): Apply heat to the edges of the rear panel, again, evenly and cautiously. If the adhesive is hard, brittle, or extremely difficult to remove, apply gentle, even heat to the affected area of the frame using a heat gun or hair dryer. Physical impact from drops, or liquid damage (especially if water enters its pressure port), can damage the sensor, rendering it inoperative or inaccurate. Battery Health: Check the battery health status in the device settings (if available). Look for obvious physical damage like bends, cracks, large missing components, or significant discoloration (indicating heat damage or corrosion). Motherboard Removal (if necessary): In many cases, especially if the power button flex cable runs underneath or is deeply connected to the motherboard, you will need to remove the entire motherboard. Network Monitors: Track Wi-Fi, cellular, and Bluetooth connectivity, signal strength, and data usage, which is useful for diagnosing intermittent network dropouts. Often, this involves replacing the entire display assembly , the outer glass, the digitizer (touch layer), and the actual display panel (LCD or OLED) bonded together. SIM Tray: The physical carrier that holds the SIM card and inserts into the device. Carefully reconnect all flex cables and secure all shields and screws. Motor Type: ERM (Eccentric Rotating Mass) motors tend to be noisier and less precise, while LRA (Linear Resonant Actuator) motors offer more precise haptic feedback. Magnifying Glass / Microscope: For close inspection of motherboard components. Proprietary Data: Manufacturers use proprietary data formats and encryption, making reverse engineering difficult. Remove any screws securing the shield, then use a plastic spudger to gently pry up and disconnect the battery flex cable from the logic board. Water damage (even minor humidity) can lead to corrosion, especially in ferrous screws. Do this close to the original pad location or at the next closest component on the trace. Replacing a smartphone fingerprint sensor ranges from a simple modular swap to a complex microsoldering task or even an impossibility for full functionality due to manufacturer pairing policies. Power On: Briefly power on the phone (it may function adequately without the screen fully attached, though handle with extreme care). When this sensor malfunctions, the device’s ability to perform these functions can be severely impaired, necessitating a replacement. Flex Cable Damage: The flexible ribbon cable connecting the digitizer to the main logic board is delicate. Diagnosing these errors requires a deep understanding of the boot process and the use of specialized tools and techniques, as missteps can further damage the device. Magnifying Glass or Jeweler's Loupe: These are indispensable for spotting hairline cracks, minute gaps, or subtle misalignments that are invisible to the naked eye. Organization: They keep the internal components tidy and prevent cables from snagging during assembly or future repairs. Physical Damage to the Phone: A dropped or water-damaged phone might have internal antenna damage or component damage affecting signal integrity. Unusual Tactile Feedback: While the haptic engine is usually responsible for the "click" feedback, a faulty Force Touch layer can sometimes influence this, leading to incorrect or missing haptic responses. Method 1: From the Phone's Settings (Recommended for functional phones) Apply new adhesive (either pre-cut adhesive strips or a thin bead of B-7000 glue around the perimeter).

@Hesham, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)