[SOLVED] I'm looking for SUBOR S16 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my SUBOR S16. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Liliana

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the SUBOR S16 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/blazing-fast-after-the-update.1403128/
Take a look at comment #1645
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/122571/Installed+new+HDD,+but+I+can't+get+OS+X+installed.
You can also check this video starting from minute 8:

The SUBOR S16 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a SUBOR S16 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My SUBOR S16 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your SUBOR S16 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Wiki/Cuisinart_Mini-Prep_Plus_DCL-2A

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Is the heat concentrated in one specific area more than others? This could indicate a localized hot spot or an issue with heat dissipation away from a particular component. On the phone's recovery menu, select "Apply update from ADB" or "ADB sideload." Wear and Tear: Though less common, extreme temperature fluctuations or material fatigue could weaken the plastic over time. Check Capacitors/Resistors Around IC: Many capacitors around the Charging IC act as filters or voltage dividers. Heat the Chip: Hold the hot air nozzle a few millimeters above the chip. This could be misalignment, a dirty sensor window, a faulty sensor, or an issue with the sensor's light pipe/gasket allowing internal light bleed. Excessive heat, from prolonged use or other component failures, can also weaken adhesives or deform plastic/rubber mounts. Screen flickering on an OLED smartphone can be a multifaceted problem. These tools scan the card's raw data for recoverable files, even if the file system is corrupted. Regular cleaning of the charging port can also indirectly help, as dirt from the port can sometimes migrate to internal connectors if the phone is opened frequently. Careful Reassembly: Reconnect all internal components, ensuring flex cables are properly seated and not pinched. Network Monitors: Track Wi-Fi, cellular, and Bluetooth connectivity, signal strength, and data usage, which is useful for diagnosing intermittent network dropouts. Cool Down: Once seated, remove the hot air and allow the board to cool completely before touching the capacitor. Do not twist or pull at an angle, as this can damage the connector on the motherboard. Passive Components (Resistors, Capacitors, Inductors): Look at components immediately surrounding the module IC and along its communication lines. Fill the cleaner with 90%+ IPA or a specialized ultrasonic cleaning solution designed for electronics. You might see "Modem version" or "Baseband version" listed, which indicates your modem firmware. Dispose of it properly at a specialized battery recycling center; do not put it in regular trash. Battery Swelling: A swollen battery can push against the screen from the inside, causing pressure and ghost touch. Physical Damage (Rare): If, after all software and calibration attempts, the compass remains completely non-functional or extremely erratic, there is a very small chance the magnetometer chip itself was damaged during the repair, perhaps due to ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) or physical impact. Use the tip of a fine plastic spudger, a wooden toothpick, or even the tip of a fine-tipped tweezers. Functionally, dust particles rarely cause performance issues unless they are conductive (like metallic shavings) and large enough to bridge circuits, which is exceedingly rare. If the new display also shows green/pink tint: The problem lies with the logic board, not the display panel. It’s the invisible backbone of every successful repair job, ensuring that every detail, no matter how small, is recorded and accounted for. Ensure all internal components are correctly seated and not protruding, especially the battery. Screen-First Devices (e.g., iPhones, many Samsung models): Apply heat to the edges of the screen to soften adhesive. Precision Screwdriver Set: Depending on your phone model (Pentalobe, Phillips, Tri-point, Torx). Gamma Correction and Color Management: The human eye perceives brightness non-linearly. If the IMEI is missing or shows all zeros, or if the Modem Firmware version is unknown/missing, it's a strong indicator of a baseband processor issue. Sticky residue everywhere: Use more IPA and lint-free wipes, changing wipes frequently.

@Nathan, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)