[SOLVED] I'm looking for Samsung G810 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my Samsung G810. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Blessing

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the Samsung G810 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/q-help-with-rooted-transformer-that-wont-boot-up.1635141/
Take a look at comment #838
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/someone-jacked-my-sprint-account.740986/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 2:

The Samsung G810 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a Samsung G810 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My Samsung G810 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your Samsung G810 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Philips+Sonicare+2+Series+Battery+Replacement/100809

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

0mA: This could indicate an open circuit (e.g., battery connector not making contact, or a dead PMIC not even initializing). Most modern smartphones require removing the back cover (often glass, secured by adhesive). Heat Gun or Hair Dryer: To soften adhesive holding the screen or back cover. Once partially opened, slowly work your way around, disconnecting the display flex cables, usually hidden under a metal shield secured by tiny screws. It’s often integrated onto a flex cable, sometimes shared with other components like the power button, volume buttons, or even the charging port flex cable. This way, even if the repair wipes your phone clean, you can restore your data to the repaired device, a new device, or simply have access to it. Avoid Extreme Temperatures: Don't leave your phone in direct sunlight or very cold conditions. Clean Residue: Once removed, use IPA and a plastic spudger to meticulously clean off any remaining adhesive residue from the phone's frame or components. Their primary purpose is to protect sensitive internal components, such as integrated circuits (ICs), memory modules, and wireless transceivers, from electromagnetic interference generated by other parts of the phone or external sources. Repairing a damaged LCD backlight filter is a challenging but highly rewarding component-level repair. Computer: A Windows PC is generally preferred due to wider tool compatibility. App-Specific Issues: Rarely, a poorly coded or malfunctioning third-party application might interfere with the display's refresh rate or graphics rendering, causing flickering when that app is in use. The components are tiny, the risk of permanent damage to the motherboard is high, and the tools required are significant investments. Locate the Venting Mechanism: This is often the trickiest part as its exact location varies significantly by model. By meticulously observing software readings, cross-referencing with manual temperature checks, using diagnostic tools, and analyzing device behavior during charging and heavy use, one can pinpoint whether the sensor is indeed the culprit. While less common, a severe impact or manufacturing defect could lead to a pin snapping off or being entirely absent. Aesthetics: A phone with separating parts looks damaged and reduces its aesthetic appeal and resale value. Missing Components: Check if any small resistors or capacitors around the IMU are missing or dislodged. Prepare Work Area: Place the motherboard on a heat-resistant mat under a microscope. Test all display functionalities: check for an image, verify touch response across the entire screen, and ensure the backlight is working correctly and evenly. In conclusion, evaluating smartphone audio latency problems requires a combination of astute observation and, for precise diagnosis, objective measurement tools. On the computer, outdated, corrupted, or missing USB drivers are common. Sensor IC Replacement (Micro-soldering): If the sensor IC itself is faulty, it will need to be replaced. Reliable sources for firmware often include reputable forums like XDA Developers, dedicated firmware websites, or manufacturer-specific community sites. Tweezers are often used in conjunction to hold and lift the component. Look for precise temperature control, adjustable airflow, and various nozzle sizes. Sharp Blade (e.g., X-Acto knife) or Fiberglass Pen: For scraping solder mask. Precision Tweezers: Various shapes and sizes for handling the chip and other small parts. This guide provides a general framework for opening the phone and accessing internal components. A malfunctioning GPS (Global Positioning System) signal on a smartphone can be incredibly frustrating, impacting everything from navigation apps to fitness trackers and location-based services.

@Ajay, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)