[SOLVED] I'm looking for THOMSON Origin 679 Lagoon repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my THOMSON Origin 679 Lagoon. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Luc

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the THOMSON Origin 679 Lagoon and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/galaxy-pop-gts5570.1235300/
Take a look at comment #1623
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/HP+Pavilion+14+hard+drive/99169.
You can also check this video starting from minute 9:

The THOMSON Origin 679 Lagoon service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a THOMSON Origin 679 Lagoon with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My THOMSON Origin 679 Lagoon was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your THOMSON Origin 679 Lagoon starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/883664/alternatives+to+Supply+power+to+a+MacBook+Pro

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Nudging (Optional): For ICs, a gentle nudge with tweezers as the solder melts can help ensure all pins settle correctly. Smartphone overheating is a common and concerning issue that can lead to performance throttling, battery degradation, and in extreme cases, permanent hardware damage. Implementing robust security measures is not just good practice; it's an absolute necessity for protecting client assets, safeguarding sensitive data, maintaining trust, and ensuring the long-term viability of the repair operation. Backlight LEDs: Small light-emitting diodes (LEDs) integrated into the display assembly, usually arranged in a strip or array, responsible for emitting light. Disconnect the battery as the very first step after opening the device to prevent short circuits. Repairing these connection points is a common microsoldering task that requires precision to restore essential wireless functionality. While removing the screen or back cover, try to minimize damage to the frame. If software diagnostics don't resolve the issue, proceed to hardware inspection. Loudspeaker (Bottom Speaker/Stereo Speaker): Typically located at the bottom of the phone (or sometimes both top and bottom for stereo sound), used for ringtones, alarms, music, videos, and speakerphone calls. Install New Module: Place the new bottom module into its slot, ensuring any flex cables are connected properly. This is a complex microsoldering task that demands specialized equipment like a hot air rework station, micro-tweezers, a high-magnification microscope, and a steady hand. The device will also likely be blocked from all networks once detected. Proper Lamination: The quality of the lamination process directly impacts the vacuum machine's effectiveness. This process varies significantly between models, but generally involves: Hot Air Application: Apply hot air (similar settings to separation, but potentially slightly lower if using low-temp solder) in a slow, even motion over the entire interposer area. Wireless Charging Coil: Locate the wireless charging coil (often a flat, circular, or square sticker/pad, typically on the inside of the back cover or above the battery). If haptics work after a factory reset, the issue was definitely software-related. Connectors (on both Flex and Motherboard): This is a very common failure point. The charge level of a battery during storage is critically important for its health. A faulty memory controller can manifest as boot loops, unrecognized storage, extreme sluggishness, or complete failure to power on. Otherwise, the new button will only function as a home button, and Touch ID will be permanently lost. A tiny amount of specialized glue remover applied with the tip of a needle might soften it, but the risk of solvent damaging internal contacts is high. Incorrect Shield Placement: Misaligned shields can prevent reassembly or apply uneven pressure to components. Plastic Opening Tools (Spudgers): For safe prying and disconnecting flex cables. Swollen Battery: A bulging battery can push against the wireless charging coil, misaligning it or damaging its connections. Wrong Screws: Using a screw that's too long in the wrong hole can puncture components (known as "long screw damage"). These devices strap onto the head, leaving both hands free, which is a significant advantage. Starting with flex cable inspection before delving into intricate motherboard diagnostics saves time, effort, and often, the device itself from unnecessary and potentially damaging interventions. Make a regular phone call (this uses both mics for noise cancellation). In some cases, it can also point to issues with the NAND flash (storage chip).

@Mohan, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)