[SOLVED] I'm looking for TREELOGIC Gravis 77QC IPS repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my TREELOGIC Gravis 77QC IPS. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Zeynep

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the TREELOGIC Gravis 77QC IPS and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/connection-problem-with-usb-c-on-pc.3991601/
Take a look at comment #198
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/bluetooth-question.2305424/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 1:

The TREELOGIC Gravis 77QC IPS service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a TREELOGIC Gravis 77QC IPS with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My TREELOGIC Gravis 77QC IPS was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your TREELOGIC Gravis 77QC IPS starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/titanium-backup-unable-to-get-root-other-root-apps-work-fine.3746370/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Start with software and network basics: restart, check settings, forget/reconnect, update software, and reset network settings. Faulty Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Module: The integrated chip responsible for these wireless functions is failing. Replacement Gaskets/O-rings (Optional): If you can source them for SIM trays, buttons, or ports for your specific model. Comparative Photography: If possible, compare photos taken with the suspect phone to those taken with a known-good smartphone of the same model, or at least a smartphone known to have a clear lens. Lens Distortion/Cracks: Visible damage to the external lens glass (though this typically impacts clarity, not module instability directly). Use a non-conductive tool (like a toothpick) or compressed air to clean it. The exact button combination to enter recovery mode varies slightly between smartphone manufacturers and models. Download OTA Image: Go to `developers.google.com/android/ota` and download the correct OTA ZIP file for your specific device and current OS version. Ensure no dust or fingerprints are on the lenses of the new module or the internal camera housing. This can happen due to physical damage, liquid ingress, component failure, or manufacturing defects. Hold specific key combinations (e.g., Volume Up + Power + Home for Samsung, or Volume Up + Power for many others) to enter TWRP. A buzzing sound after a smartphone repair is a nuisance, but it's almost always fixable. On PC: In "This PC" (Windows) or "Disk Utility" (Mac), right-click (or select) the SD card and choose "Format." Use the default file system (usually FAT32 or exFAT, depending on card size and phone compatibility). Dedicated Test Apps: Many apps are available on app stores (e.g., "Screen Test," "Display Tester") that provide various solid color screens, including pure black. iPhones (6s and earlier): Press and hold Home button + Power button simultaneously for about 10 seconds. They allow technicians to perform tasks more quickly, accurately, and with less effort. This icon, typically a lightning bolt or a battery with a plug, might flash on and off intermittently or remain steadily on for a period. If the initial checks don't resolve the issue and you suspect a hardware problem, you'll need to open the phone. Sometimes, aftermarket parts omit small components like brackets or dust filters found on the OEM part to cut costs. You will be looking for a distinct "hotspot" , an area that glows significantly brighter or displays a higher temperature reading compared to the rest of the board. Weak Wi-Fi Signal: Consistently low signal strength even when near a router. Fuses (F): Look for low-value resistors (often 0 ohms, or with a fuse symbol) designed to blow on overcurrent. Temperature: Does the flickering coincide with the phone getting unusually hot? Overheating can sometimes cause components to malfunction. Electromagnetic Interference (EMI) is a persistent challenge in compact electronic devices like smartphones. Clean Old Adhesive: Use isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or spudger to carefully remove any remnants of old adhesive from the phone's frame. Physical Damage: Visually inspect the device for signs of drops, bends, or liquid damage, particularly around the areas where antennas are typically located (top, bottom, sides). Patience, precision, and a clean workspace are your best allies in ensuring a successful repair and crystal-clear photos once again. Flex Cable Replacement: This is the most common solution for a faulty power button. Video Resolution/Frame Rate: Recording at a very high resolution (e.g., 4K) in low light can sometimes exacerbate noise if the sensor isn't performing optimally. Different Charger/Cable: Always test with a known-good, official charger and USB-C cable.

@Emma, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)