[SOLVED] I'm looking for VIDA A110 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my VIDA A110. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Fabienne

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the VIDA A110 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/339594/Zanussi+ZDT+6252+DW+not+draining+properly
Take a look at comment #972
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/198403/I+am+losing+antifreeze+and+there+is+no+obvious+leak..
You can also check this video starting from minute 10:

The VIDA A110 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a VIDA A110 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My VIDA A110 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your VIDA A110 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/touchwiz-3-ui-for-android-2-2-2.1731927/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

This guide will delve into identifying, analyzing, and potentially resolving touchscreen calibration issues on your smartphone. Camera Modules: Result in blurry photos, incorrect colors, focus issues, or complete camera failure. Look for "Maximum Capacity" and "Peak Performance Capability." If capacity is low or it states "Service," a new battery is likely needed. Over-Discharge Protection: Prevents the battery from being discharged too low, which can permanently damage the battery cells. Advanced Battery Management: Apps like Greenify can truly hibernate background apps, preventing wakelocks and significantly extending battery life. Components that feel loose or shift unexpectedly, suggesting a missing plastic bracket. If you're not confident, it's best to avoid potentially causing more damage. Determine if the screen is just slightly lifted in one area or completely separated. A cable rated for lower amperage than what the charger/phone wants to deliver will either charge slowly or not at all. The Tristar chip (often identified by part numbers like 1610A1, 1610A2, 1610A3, 610A3B on iPhones) and its successor, Hydra, is essentially a sophisticated USB management and authentication IC. For iOS devices, while there isn't a direct "Safe Mode" equivalent for apps, you can try isolating app issues by closing all background apps and observing if the flickering persists. Every action a smartphone performs, from powering on to running apps, requires electrical energy, which translates to a specific current draw. The gyroscope/magnetometer (IMU) chip is typically a very small, multi-pin IC, often a BGA (Ball Grid Array) or LGA (Land Grid Array) package, located near the main CPU or on a separate flex cable near the top of the phone (sometimes integrated with the proximity/light sensor flex). You can use clamps or rubber bands around the phone for a few hours to ensure a strong, even bond. Causes: Physical debris, button mechanism dislodged, liquid damage causing a short. Carefully work your way around the perimeter, gradually separating the adhesive. Tweezers: A variety of fine-tipped, anti-static tweezers (straight, curved, angled) for manipulating tiny components. AGPS data download: These apps often have an option to "download A-GPS data" or "reset A-GPS data." A-GPS (Assisted GPS) uses cellular network data to quickly get an initial satellite fix. Understanding the various options available, their strengths, weaknesses, and ideal applications is key to building an effective repair setup. The causes of gyroscope malfunction, similar to other smartphone sensor issues, can be categorized into software and hardware problems. Hot Air Rework Station: For removing and replacing components, and sometimes for preheating. Installing a downloaded APK file: This is the most frequent trigger, especially if the APK is corrupted, incomplete, or incompatible with your device. Metal Shields/Brackets: Remove any metal plates covering the logic board. You will now see the old thermal paste, likely dried and crumbly, on both the SoC die and the mating surface of the heatsink. Attempting to repair a damaged FPC connector without the necessary skills can lead to further, irreparable damage to the motherboard. Disconnect Battery FIRST: After opening the device, immediately disconnect the battery to prevent short circuits. Allow it to fully cure, then test by gently threading the original screw. Carefully touch the iron to each signal pin, making a connection to its corresponding pad. It transforms a potentially fragile repair into a more robust and resilient solution, safeguarding the intricate electronics against the elements that commonly plague modern mobile devices.6. Discoloration/Oxidation: Older cracks might show signs of oxidation within the fissure, appearing darker.

@Moha, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)