Forum Phones & Tablets Repair
Discussion Starter - #1 - 1 week ago

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my VIDEOCON Metal Pro 1. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.


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I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.



>>>> VIDEOCON Metal Pro 1 maintenance guide & schematics (pdf + fz)

Good luck

Discussion Starter - #3 - 1 week ago

@Alan

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the VIDEOCON Metal Pro 1 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/and-now-i-thank-you.708884/
Take a look at comment #974
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/lost-mobile-data-after-flashing-custom-rom.2961420/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 6:


The VIDEOCON Metal Pro 1 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a VIDEOCON Metal Pro 1 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.



emoji scratching head

My VIDEOCON Metal Pro 1 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your VIDEOCON Metal Pro 1 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

  • Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
  • Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
  • Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
  • Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
  • Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/best-keyboard.613797/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Traces: The fine conductive lines on the PCB can be corroded, causing open circuits. Missing or Damaged Antenna Components: Some antennas have small surface-mount components (capacitors, inductors) that can be dislodged. The frustration of a smartphone that refuses to charge when powered on, yet dutifully fills its battery when completely shut down, is a peculiar and surprisingly common issue. Disconnect Coaxial Cables: If coaxial cables are present, gently unclip their tiny connectors from the logic board. Physical Damage: Inspect for dents, cracks, or damage to the sensor IC itself or any components surrounding it. SOIC (Small Outline Integrated Circuit): Has visible leads along two sides. It creates a smoother, more stable surface for the suction cup to adhere to, which might otherwise struggle to maintain a vacuum on a heavily fractured surface. Often, the proximity sensor is part of a larger flex cable assembly that includes other components like the front-facing camera, ambient light sensor, or earpiece speaker contacts. In Safe Mode, only pre-installed applications run, which can help determine if a third-party app is interfering with the sensor's operation. Know Your Model: Research the specific smartphone model you're working on. Antennas: Small metallic pads or specific shapes on the PCB for wireless communication. Successfully tackling corrosion can bring a seemingly dead or intermittently failing smartphone back to life, saving it from the landfill. For external ports, short bursts of compressed air (from a safe distance and low pressure) can help. For hardware-related Wi-Fi greyed out issues, the solution almost always involves microsoldering. For legitimate smartphone repair businesses, navigating IMEI-related issues requires careful adherence to legal and ethical standards: Before reaching for any tools, it's crucial to exhaust all software-related possibilities, as these are often the easiest and cheapest to resolve. Ensure it's flat, aligned correctly, and doesn't obstruct any moving parts or electrical contacts. Ground the Mat: Connect the mat's grounding cord to a reliable ground point (e.g., the ground pin of a three-prong outlet, a dedicated earth ground). When an EMI issue arises in a smartphone, especially after a repair, a drop, or liquid damage, it often indicates that the original shielding has been compromised. Among these, the barometric pressure sensor, often integrated into the device's barometer, plays a subtle but critical role. When a BGA component needs to be removed (e.g., due to failure, liquid damage, or lifted pads from physical impact), the original solder balls are often deformed or completely removed. Voltage Regulation: Converting the battery voltage into the various precise voltage levels required by different components (CPU, RAM, display, Wi-Fi, etc.). However, this level of diagnosis is almost exclusively performed in a repair shop environment and is beyond the scope of a typical user's troubleshooting. This functionality is incredibly useful for staying connected on the go, but it can be prone to various issues that disrupt connectivity or performance. Android: Go to Settings > Display > Adaptive brightness (or Auto-brightness). Damaged Accelerometer Sensor: Like the gyroscope, the accelerometer is a delicate Micro-Electro-Mechanical System (MEMS) chip on the phone's motherboard. Choose the image that is for your current Android version or the version you wish to install. Clean the Lens: Use a microfiber cloth and a dedicated lens cleaner (or a dab of isopropyl alcohol on the cloth) to thoroughly clean the camera lens. Slow GPS Lock (High TTFF): Takes an unusually long time to acquire a satellite signal and get a position fix. Slide the prying tool along the edges, slowly cutting through the adhesive.

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