[SOLVED] I'm looking for VIVA J1 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my VIVA J1. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Anthony

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the VIVA J1 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/ASUS+X533SA-BHCLN10+Optical+Disc+Drive+Replacement/100253
Take a look at comment #641
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/need-help-installing-ics.2276152/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 9:

The VIVA J1 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a VIVA J1 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My VIVA J1 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your VIVA J1 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/926633/Come+posso+pulire+audio+ed+altoparlante

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Replacing a suspected damaged coaxial cable is a relatively simple and common fix. Replacing the backlight driver IC and associated components is a microsoldering task. Pre-tin Wires: Always pre-tin the ends of your jumper wires before attempting to solder them to the board. Using a lint-free microfiber cloth and isopropyl alcohol (or the cleaning wipes provided in the kit), meticulously clean your phone screen. Self-correction note: Ensure you do NOT select "Wipe data/factory reset," as that will erase your data. If this chip is damaged (e.g., from severe impact, liquid damage, or manufacturing defect), it can lead to complete loss of cellular signal or very weak signal. Remove Battery (If Possible): If your phone has a user-removable battery, remove it instantly. Poor Wi-Fi Range/Throughput: Device struggles to connect to Wi-Fi networks even when close to the router, or experiences slow speeds when connected. Action: Go to "Settings > Battery" and examine the battery usage graph and list of apps/components consuming power. Preliminary Test: Reconnect the battery, power on, and test the vibration. These locks restrict device functionality, impose security policies, and can even remotely wipe data. The unlock process might take an unusually long time to complete, suggesting the system is struggling to match the facial data. A common issue arises when a device or accessory requires a specific USB version or power profile that the other component does not support. Logic Board Connector Check: Carefully inspect the FPC connector on the logic board under a microscope. Disconnect Battery: Before touching any internal components, always disconnect the battery flex cable from the logic board to prevent any accidental short circuits. It might still be adhered to the display assembly itself, or it might be a completely separate part. Security and Authentication: Encrypting communications and authenticating the device with the network. Establish a Warranty Process: Understand your supplier's warranty and return policy. Another clear sign is excessive heat generation on the phone's surface. Damage to the coaxial cable: A frayed, cut, or poorly connected cable that transmits signals between the antenna and the logic board. Corrosion: Look for any green, white, or crystalline corrosion on the flex cable, especially where it connects to the motherboard or where it folds. If the old adhesive is no longer strong, you might need to apply new B-7000 adhesive to the frame before pressing the panel back on. Visual Confirmation of Damage: If cleaning doesn't help and other components are ruled out, assume physical damage to the port. Close the Device: Reapply adhesive if necessary and carefully close the device's back cover or screen assembly. Fake Charging: The phone shows it's charging, but the battery level either drops or remains stagnant. Coaxial Cables: Align the tiny coaxial connector precisely over its socket and gently press down until you feel/hear a soft click. Replacement Proximity Sensor Flex Cable Assembly: Ensure it's the correct and compatible part for your specific phone model. Too Aggressive Flux (e.g., Water-Soluble): If not perfectly cleaned, the corrosive residue will short out components, corrode traces, and cause long-term device failure. High risk of damaging the flex cable or surrounding components if done incorrectly. Use with extreme caution and only for stubborn spots where plastic tools fail, always away from delicate flex cables.

@Sofia, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)