[SOLVED] I'm looking for VIVAX Pro M1 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my VIVAX Pro M1. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Celine

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the VIVAX Pro M1 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/will-8s-work-on-aws.2153365/
Take a look at comment #1238
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/609110/Screen+issues+after+clorox+wipes.
You can also check this video starting from minute 5:

The VIVAX Pro M1 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a VIVAX Pro M1 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My VIVAX Pro M1 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your VIVAX Pro M1 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/586056/Installing+fusion+drive+in+older+iMac

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Ensure it's properly seated and its flex cable is securely connected to the motherboard. No charging/slow charging: The charging IC detects the short and prevents charging, or it charges very slowly due to the current being diverted. If, after all software troubleshooting and external factor elimination, the touchscreen issues persist, it's highly likely a hardware problem. In advanced diagnostic scenarios, certain system logs might show errors related to the NFC controller or antenna, though this is less common for end-users to access directly. In low light, if the shutter speed remains slow, photos will consistently appear blurred even with careful handholding. UV Solder Mask/Curing Lamp: Crucial for insulating reconstructed pads and jumper wires. Never lift a component completely off the phone using only the suction cup without first disconnecting its flex cables. This is achieved through a precise array of tiny screws and specialized metal brackets. Understand that these ratings are for freshwater under controlled lab conditions. Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Antenna: Usually a shared antenna for these short-range wireless technologies. If all software avenues are exhausted, the problem is likely hardware-related. Preferred Network Type: Ensure your "Preferred Network Type" (e.g., 5G/LTE/3G/2G Auto) is set appropriately, not forced to a weak or unavailable network. This is especially prevalent if a logic board from a carrier-locked device is installed into an unlocked housing, or vice-versa. A more technical approach, though requiring external equipment, involves using a dedicated phase meter or oscilloscope. Test the Button Switches: With a multimeter, you can check for continuity across the button's solder points when pressed and released. Replacing a ToF sensor is a precise repair, often requiring significant disassembly of the smartphone. Identifying smartphone screw-post damage is a critical, albeit often overlooked, aspect of smartphone repair and maintenance. Performance Throttling: Informing the OS to reduce CPU/GPU clock speeds if temperatures exceed safe limits. Remove Phone Case: Some phone cases, particularly thick ones, those with metal plates, or pop sockets, can interfere with wireless charging. Side-Mounted (Capacitive): Integrated into the power button on the side of the phone, common in many Android models. Power Management Issues: A faulty PMIC or specific power regulators (LDOs) feeding the baseband can cause it to malfunction. Proper Technique: When disconnecting flex cables, always pry from beneath the connector, not directly on the cable itself, and lift straight up, not at an angle. Strain Relief: The reinforced section where the cable meets the connector housing, designed to prevent bending stress on the internal wires. Routing Flex Cables: Ensure flex cables are routed exactly as they were originally, without kinks or unnecessary tension, and secured with any original adhesive strips or clamps. Modern smartphones are engineered with remarkable precision, featuring miniaturized components, delicate flex cables, and often strong adhesives. Short Circuits: A bent shield can short out exposed components underneath it. Internal cleaning involves opening your smartphone, which carries several significant risks: LCDs are generally not susceptible to permanent burn-in but can experience temporary image retention. Ensure the frame is perfectly clean, dry, and free of any glass shards or debris. This means reinstalling the rear camera, logic board (if removed), all brackets, and screws.

@Paula, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)