[SOLVED] I'm looking for WENTTO Edition repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my WENTTO Edition. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Sebastian

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the WENTTO Edition and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/535798/Temperature+warning+issue+on+my+iPhone
Take a look at comment #1341
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/424491/part+to+replace+the+sim+card+platform+for+this+model.
You can also check this video starting from minute 1:

The WENTTO Edition service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a WENTTO Edition with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My WENTTO Edition was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your WENTTO Edition starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://xdaforums.com/t/has-any-one-tried-eclipse-8-yet.1283856/

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

Once disconnected and unscrewed, the loudspeaker module should lift out of its housing. This strategic placement ensures it is close to the surface for effective communication with external NFC readers or tags. Component Damage: A physically damaged speaker (e.g., a torn cone, a coil issue) can alter its acoustic properties, effectively putting it out of phase relative to a healthy speaker, even if electrically connected correctly. Remove Motherboard: Disconnect all other flex cables connected to the motherboard (charging port, cameras, antennas, etc.). In most modern smartphones, especially flagship models, the digitizer is fused to the display panel and the front glass as a single, inseparable unit, referred to as the "display assembly." This means that to replace the digitizer, you must replace the entire display assembly. Fine-tipped Soldering Iron: Pencil tip, blade tip, or hoof tip, for pad cleaning and small jumpers. While physical inspection can reveal some clues, specialized software tools offer a more reliable and data-driven approach to checking smartphone battery authenticity and overall health. Schematics and Boardview: Essential for professionals to understand the power tree, reset lines, and PMIC pinouts, allowing them to locate test points and diagnose specific failures. One end connects to the camera module itself, and the other plugs into a connector on the phone's motherboard. Locate the Cooling System: The active fan unit is usually situated near the SoC, often accompanied by vapor chambers or heat pipes. Use a thin plastic pry tool or playing card to carefully separate the back glass from the frame. Rolling/Rubbing: Sometimes, old adhesive can be "balled up" by rubbing it with your finger or a cotton swab, causing it to clump and peel off. Ensure it sits flush and has the correct tactile "click" (by pressing it and ensuring the internal flex cable switch activates). It will still be connected by flex cables, usually located on one side or at the bottom. Damage to Adjacent Components: Hot air can easily dislodge or damage small surface-mount components (resistors, capacitors) situated close to the shield. Research Your Specific Model: Search for a detailed teardown guide or video for your exact phone model (e.g., "iFixit iPhone 11 Power Button Replacement" or "Samsung Galaxy S20 Power Flex Replacement YouTube"). Review Recently Installed Apps / App Updates: Even if Safe Mode isn't an option or doesn't pinpoint an app, reflect on any apps you've recently installed or updated. Swollen batteries inherently have compromised performance and often lead to inaccurate readings. Test with Different Apps: Download a different compass app from your app store (e.g., "Compass" by Pixelar, "Sensor Box for Android"). Salvaged/Pulled Parts: These are genuine parts removed from other, often broken, devices. When your phone struggles to acquire a lock, shows inaccurate locations, or frequently loses signal, it's crucial to diagnose whether the problem is due to software glitches, environmental factors, or a hardware defect. If software solutions fail, and you're not comfortable with advanced board-level hardware diagnostics, it's time to seek a professional smartphone repair specialist who offers micro-soldering services. Repair involves complex board-level micro-soldering to replace the chip, which is often a very expensive and specialized repair, sometimes warranting a full logic board replacement or new device.The smooth, vibrant displays of modern smartphones, particularly those utilizing OLED technology, are a cornerstone of their user experience. Hot Surroundings: Leaving the phone in direct sunlight, in a hot car, or near a heat source. In conclusion, a smartphone shutting down under load is a symptom that demands a thorough investigation. Conductive Paint/Sprays: Less common for DIY smartphone repair due to mess and precise application difficulty, but available for creating conductive surfaces on plastic housings. Using your soldering iron with fresh solder on the tip and solder wick, carefully clean all residual solder from the pads. Identification: Often located on the display flex cable or near the display connector on the main board. Remove Battery: Once the battery is fully detached, carefully lift it out without bending or damaging it. Transferring IMEI-Holding Chips from the Original Board to a Donor Board (Advanced Micro-Soldering)

@Andrew, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)