[SOLVED] I'm looking for Wiko Y70 repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my Wiko Y70. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Hoda

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the Wiko Y70 and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/relocked-bootloader.3459794/
Take a look at comment #1617
Also, this : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/330956/Mac+gets+to+loading+screen+only+gets+about+1-3+full.
You can also check this video starting from minute 1:

The Wiko Y70 service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a Wiko Y70 with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My Wiko Y70 was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your Wiko Y70 starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/216639/no+LCD+backlight+and+no+keyboard+light

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

You might get lucky many times, but eventually, an ESD event will occur. Wi-Fi/Bluetooth IC: Wi-Fi/Bluetooth not turning on, greyed out, intermittent connectivity, poor range. Mechanical Action - Q-tips/Lint-Free Cloths: For smaller, more delicate connectors or individual pins, dampen a Q-tip or a lint-free cloth wrapped around a fine-point tool with IPA. When in Recovery Mode, your screen will typically display an iTunes/computer icon with a cable. Ensure there are no bent pins, no gaps, and that the connector is perfectly flush and seated. If your phone doesn't charge on any reliable pad, the problem is almost certainly with your phone. Pry tools: Plastic spudgers, opening picks (thin plastic cards), or very thin metal pry tools (use with extreme caution to avoid scratching the frame or damaging internal components). Reseating the SIM card, or even trying a different, known-good SIM card, can quickly determine if the SIM itself is faulty or if the SIM tray has poor contact. Flat Region (slope of 0): Indicates Bias Instability, the minimum point on the curve often corresponds to the optimal averaging time for minimizing bias error. Reboot Regularly: A simple reboot can clear temporary software issues. Understanding the nature of these issues, their symptoms, and common causes is essential for accurate diagnosis and effective repair. However, understanding its causes and solutions remains essential for maintaining smartphone longevity and ensuring optimal display quality.## 4. Install New Taptic Engine: Place the new Taptic Engine into its designated slot. Finger Test: Carefully touch the PMIC and surrounding components while the phone is connected to the DC power supply (if drawing current). This requires a steady hand and a light touch; excessive force will likely break the pin or its internal spring. For Board-Level Repair (if applicable): Hot air rework station, microscope, flux, solder, thin enamel wire, new connector. Disconnect the Battery IMMEDIATELY: Once the phone is open, locate the battery flex cable connector on the logic board. Watch closely as the solder melts; surface tension will often "pull" the IC into perfect alignment, a phenomenon known as self-centering. Use High-Quality Parts: Low-quality replacement screens or other components can sometimes interfere with sensor performance due to poor design or materials. Without pre-heating, applying intense, localized heat directly to a large component can cause significant thermal stress to the board and surrounding components. Short Circuit/Component Failure: A rare but possible cause could be a minor short circuit on the motherboard or a failing component (e.g., Wi-Fi module, sensor) that constantly tries to initialize or draw power, keeping the system awake. Data transfer issues are also frequent, where a computer might not recognize the phone, or an external drive connected via OTG (On-The-Go) is not detected. The first step is always to rule out software issues, which are often simpler to resolve. For an ISP: Test all camera functions , front and rear cameras, video recording, different camera modes. This guide will walk you through various strategies, from simple software fixes to complex chip-off data extraction, to help you retrieve your precious information. Signal interference can manifest as dropped calls, poor call quality (static, choppiness), slow data speeds, erratic Wi-Fi/Bluetooth connections, or even intermittent GPS inaccuracies. For example, the wireless charging coil, NFC antenna, and camera flash module are often directly attached to the back glass or located just beneath it. Final Reassembly: If the new display works flawlessly, power off, disconnect the battery, apply new adhesive strips to the phone's frame, and carefully re-seat the display. ESD-Safe Mat and Wrist Strap: To prevent electrostatic discharge damage. Each manufacturer (e.g., Samsung, Google, OnePlus, Huawei) typically has its own proprietary hardware jig or setup that facilitates the calibration process.

@Marisol, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)