[SOLVED] I'm looking for Yamada Denki EveryPhone ME repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my Yamada Denki EveryPhone ME. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Patrick

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the Yamada Denki EveryPhone ME and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/717810/Side+aluminium+body+damaged
Take a look at comment #706
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/help.2568984/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 10:

The Yamada Denki EveryPhone ME service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a Yamada Denki EveryPhone ME with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My Yamada Denki EveryPhone ME was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your Yamada Denki EveryPhone ME starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Motorola+Moto+G+1st+Generation+Midframe+Replacement/30934

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

If you suspect a swollen battery, refer to Topic 4 and exercise extreme caution. The rubber will conform to the stripped grooves, increasing friction and potentially providing enough grip for the screwdriver to turn. They offer a lifeline for users whose devices have suffered catastrophic failure, allowing direct access to the storage chip's contents. Replacing the USB-C port assembly is a common and often necessary repair, varying in complexity depending on whether the port is a modular component on a sub-board (daughterboard) or soldered directly to the main logic board. Open the Display: Once the adhesive is loosened around all edges, gently open the display. Also, check `Battery Health` to see the maximum capacity relative to when it was new. Placement: Using fine-tipped tweezers, carefully position the new capacitor onto the pads. For more stubborn areas of oxidization, especially around component pins or under shields, specialized tools are required. Schematic Diagrams/Boardview Software: Very helpful for identifying specific antenna connections and test points. Adhering to best practices, such as ESD precautions, meticulous organization, and thorough testing, will ensure a successful repair and restore full functionality to the smartphone's specialized features.Troubleshooting Smartphone Camera Focus Hunting and Stabilization Problems Repeat (if necessary): If unsuccessful, you can repeat this a few times. - Avoid carrying your phone in tight pockets or bags where it can be subjected to pressure from other objects. The challenge lies in distinguishing between external smudges, software glitches, and genuine internal contamination, as well as the delicate nature of camera module components. When a smartphone camera malfunctions, it significantly degrades the device's utility and user experience. Replacement Flexible Connector/Cable: Or the component to be re-bonded. Organize Screws: Use a magnetic mat, labeled compartments, or even a piece of tape with screws arranged in the order they were removed to avoid mixing them up. Durability: The DIY coating is generally not as durable or long-lasting as the factory-applied coating. Operating System Bugs: An update to Android or iOS could introduce a bug that affects how the barometer's raw data is interpreted or processed into usable altitude or pressure readings. Rapid Draining: If your phone's battery percentage drops unusually fast, even with light usage, it's a strong sign of degradation. Lithium-ion batteries swell due to internal gas buildup, often a result of: Stock Android (like on Google Pixel phones) doesn't typically offer a direct "Maximum Capacity" percentage in the main settings like iOS does. After reseating, reassemble enough of the phone to power it on and test the camera function before fully closing the device. Discoloration: Pink, green, or yellow tints can appear, sometimes spreading from the point of ingress. Widgets: Some widgets, especially those that constantly update (like weather widgets), can contribute to drain. Quality USB Cable: Use the original or a high-quality USB 2.0/3.0 cable. Host Phone Overheating: The smartphone acting as the hotspot becomes excessively warm, which can lead to performance throttling and connection drops. Data Recovery: Often, micro-soldering is the only way to repair a board sufficiently to recover critical user data from a severely damaged device. Document Everything: Take clear photos or videos at each step of disassembly. Use compressed air (blower bulb) to ensure the area is free of dust, especially any tiny openings. Corrosion typically appears as green, blue, or white crystalline residue on the metal contacts.

@Alexandra, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)