[SOLVED] I'm looking for acer Liquid Jade Z repair guide or schematics (free) - Phones & Tablets Forum

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help me out with my acer Liquid Jade Z. It's started acting up, and I'm looking for a detailed service manual with boardviews and schematics to properly diagnose and repair it. I need to take precise voltage measurements around the board, so having the right documentation would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Selected Answer

I actually found that service manual on a tech Discord server a while back. A really helpful member there shared a direct link to their blog and I've saved it. I'm happy to pass it along here. Hopefully, these boardviews and schematics help you fix your phone, just like they got me through my repair. Looks like we have the same model.

@Furkan

Absolute legend! That's exactly the info I was searching for. This is going to save me so much time probing in the dark. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing the link!

Hi there,

I also have the acer Liquid Jade Z and just downloaded the manual you shared. I'm pretty new to board-level phone repair, and this is a bit intimidating with all the tiny test points and the schematics. Could you point me in the right direction on how to start troubleshooting this ? Any advice on the first few things I should check would be a massive help.

Thanks so much for your time

General advices: start by checking the voltage at the battery connector on the board. With a known-good battery connected, you should see a steady voltage between 3.7V and 4.2V. After that, a great next step is to check the main power management IC (PMIC) for shorts. Using your multimeter in diode mode, check for shorts on the large input capacitors surrounding the PMIC.

Here are a few useful references for troubleshooting your device:
https://xdaforums.com/t/q-spotify-problem-with-sense-4-roms.1551283/
Take a look at comment #438
Also, this : https://xdaforums.com/t/focus-time-flash.2844325/.
You can also check this video starting from minute 5:

The acer Liquid Jade Z service manual and boardviews from the link above were exactly what I've been searching for. I couldn't find a complete, free copy anywhere else. Seriously, thank you for sharing this you're a lifesaver!

Hi everyone, I'm working on a acer Liquid Jade Z with a no power issue and need some guidance with my measurements.
I'm detecting 3.3V on the VREG_MAIN line (pin 1 of the PMIC), which looks good, but I'm getting 0V on the VDD_CPU line (pin 8) where the schematics indicate I should see about 0.9V.
Since this is a core voltage for the application processor, could this missing rail be why the device shows no signs of life?
What's the best procedure to diagnose this further? Should I check for shorts on the CPU rail first, or look at the PMIC's enable signals?
I've already verified the main 3.3V and 1.8V power rails are present and stable.

My acer Liquid Jade Z was working perfectly until yesterday when it suddenly went completely dead. Now it won't respond to the power button, doesn't vibrate, and shows no signs of life even when connected to a charger. I'm worried there might be a serious issue.

I have a decent multimeter, a basic soldering iron, and a healthy dose of patience. While I've successfully replaced iPhone batteries and charging ports, this will be my first attempt at actual diagnosis. The sheer density of BGA chips and microscopic components is honestly a bit overwhelming.

I'm particularly curious about the alcohol trick I've seen online where you apply isopropyl to the board and look for evaporation hotspots to locate shorts. Is this actually a reliable method for beginners, or are there better approaches I should try first with just a multimeter?

I learned this lesson the hard way last month with mine, it was declared "dead" by two different shops. The phone showed absolutely no signs of life - no charging indicator, no vibration, nothing. Before diving into complex board work, I decided to try one more basic test: wireless charging.

To my complete surprise, it actually heated up on the charging pad! This single discovery completely changed my diagnostic path. It turned out the issue wasn't with the main board or processor, but with the notoriously fragile USB-C port that had failed completely. A $15 replacement part and some careful soldering brought it back to life.

The moral? Always exhaust every external testing method before opening the device. Test wireless charging if available, try different charging methods, and don't assume the worst case scenario. Sometimes the most "dead" devices have the simplest solutions hiding in plain sight.

I suspect my issue might be related to that cheap, third-party fast charger I used at the airport last week... Now the device gets extremely hot during charging, the screen flickers at low brightness, and sometimes it randomly shuts down at 30% battery. Could this have damaged the power management IC or battery calibration?

If your acer Liquid Jade Z starts acting up, random reboots, fast battery drain, or connectivity issues, there are several diagnostic steps you can take before assuming the worst:

• Check your charging habits: Using poor-quality chargers or wireless pads can gradually damage your battery and charging circuit, leading to unpredictable behavior.
• Inspect the physical components: A slightly damaged charging port, worn battery, or even accumulated pocket lint can cause issues that seem like major hardware failures.
• Monitor temperature patterns: If your phone gets unusually hot during specific tasks (like camera use or gaming), it could point to a failing component rather than a software issue.
• Use diagnostic tools wisely: Ampere for battery health, phone diagnostic codes (*#0*# on many models), and a thermal camera can reveal problems without opening the device.
• Know when to stop: If you see liquid damage indicators tripped or smell burnt electronics, it's time to consult a professional before causing irreversible damage.

Also visit this link it may help : https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/876420/Changing+the+screen,+OEM+replacement+doesn't+match+up

Here's what I discovered on forums and technical databases:

LRAs are becoming more common in premium devices for their superior haptic feedback. The severity, location, and type of corrosion will dictate the repair strategy. Protect Nearby Components: Strategically apply Kapton tape to shield any very sensitive or easily dislodged components adjacent to the charging port. Use a suction cup near the bottom edge to create a gap, then insert a thin prying tool and carefully work your way around, gently lifting the screen. Impact Damage: A drop or impact, even if it didn't shatter the screen, could have damaged the digitizer layer underneath or loosened its connection. If it's unresponsive or in a loop, hold down the power button until it shuts down, or let its battery drain completely and then connect it to a charger for a few minutes before trying to enter recovery. Install Motherboard: If removed, carefully place the motherboard back into the phone's frame, ensuring it seats correctly and all screw holes align. Underlying Board Issue: If the antenna is fine and connections are good, the problem might be with the RF transceiver ICs on the main logic board, which is a much more complex board-level repair. Airflow: Low to medium, just enough to circulate the hot air without blowing away tiny surrounding components or sputtering the flux. While incredibly convenient, this feature can sometimes lead to conflicts, manifesting as frustrating and intermittent network issues. Use a plastic spudger or specialized adhesive remover tool to carefully scrape away all traces of the old adhesive from the phone's frame and the corresponding edges on the back of the display assembly. Perform a Factory Reset (Optional, but Recommended for Privacy): If you're comfortable that your backup is complete, performing a factory reset from within the phone's settings (`Settings > System > Reset options > Erase all data (factory reset)` on Android, or `Settings > General > Transfer or Reset iPhone > Erase All Content and Settings` on iOS) will ensure your personal data is not accessible to anyone during transit or repair. CRITICAL: Once the screen is lifted, disconnect the battery immediately using a plastic spudger to prevent any electrical hazards. A device experiencing random reboots or display glitches after a drop might have damaged TVS diodes, making other components susceptible to ESD. Drops can crack its solder balls, liquid damage can corrode it, or it can simply fail due to thermal stress. It's also wise to back up any critical data on your device, just in case something goes awry, although this particular repair rarely impacts data integrity. Speakers, microphones, cameras, and batteries are particularly vulnerable. Using tweezers, place the new fuse onto the board, aligning it with the pads. If battery life improves dramatically in Safe Mode, it strongly suggests a third-party app is the cause. Charging Port Flex Cable: Sometimes, a thermistor is located on the flex cable that also houses the charging port, main microphone, or headphone jack. Its main purpose is to turn off the screen and disable touch input when the phone is held to the ear during a call. Android: Usually achieved by holding specific button combinations (e.g., Power + Volume Up, or Power + Volume Down, or Power + Home + Volume Up) immediately after powering on. Silica gel packets or rice (for severe moisture issues - controversial, but commonly used) For LCD screens, the backlight is always on, so Dark Mode offers minimal battery savings, but can still be easier on the eyes. Wireless charging has evolved from a niche feature to a commonplace convenience, allowing users to power up their devices simply by placing them on a charging pad. Most modern phones open via the screen (e.g., iPhones) or the back glass (e.g., many Android phones). This is notoriously known as "Long Screw Damage" (LSD) in iPhones, where specific screws near the logic board's display connector are designed to be shorter to avoid damaging underlying traces. Remove Screws/Adhesive: The wireless charging pad might be secured by a few small Phillips screws, a bracket, or simply by adhesive. Safety is paramount when performing such an extensive smartphone repair. Flex Cable Damage: Inspect the entire flex cable assembly for any tears, creases, nicks, or signs of liquid damage/corrosion.

@Mustapha, Not sure what you're trying to say but ok :)